Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

atmospheric BOV's sound heaps better, especially when you hit fullboost and release throttle and hear this almighty TSCHHHH come from the car, is much better than having a goddamn muztek style dose lol

I don't think atmo bov's have any performance value since it's venting the aircharge into the bay, but i like the sound of mine at least, so yeah, guess its a personal preference for the noises you like to hear out of your car lol.

You could block your standard BOV i.e. with a piece of sheet metal.

My mate's R32 is running a fairly big turbo without a BOV, so as the air recirculates through the compressor housing it makes a HUGE whistle/chirp sound, sounds like feeding an air compressor through a massive flute.

When he's on my right and my window's down he changes gear and splits my f**ken ear drum open. My ears nearly bleed.

Good times :thumbsup:

Stock is the smart decision

But if you must have an atmospheric bov, the novelty wears off and you eventually feel like an idot, not to mention it will hurt if you get a yellow sticker, anyways go with a turbosmart i think they sound the best. This may hurt the hks fans but DONT get a hks ssq they sound crap like a large high pitched whistle but it is a very popular choice. So obviously i am different in taste in that aspect.

But i would deffinetly reccommend a stock bov.

Get an after market one, its a novelty everyone wants at first.

Yes, they certainly are a novelty...

You could block your standard BOV i.e. with a piece of sheet metal.

My R31 ran with no BOV, FMIC and apexi pod filter and made the filthiest fluttering noises you've ever heard. Sounded fantastic.

I've tried the blanking plate on my R33 and the ECU does NOT like it. Pops and farts like crazy on gear changes, so I went back to standard. With the BOV blocked it definitely felt crisper on gear changes but the extra backfires meant it wasn't worth it.

Yes, they certainly are a novelty...

My R31 ran with no BOV, FMIC and apexi pod filter and made the filthiest fluttering noises you've ever heard. Sounded fantastic.

I've tried the blanking plate on my R33 and the ECU does NOT like it. Pops and farts like crazy on gear changes, so I went back to standard. With the BOV blocked it definitely felt crisper on gear changes but the extra backfires meant it wasn't worth it.

Well if you want that back if you get it tuned with apexi pfc to suit it will run fine

Well if you want that back if you get it tuned with apexi pfc to suit it will run fine

You can never get even a PFC l-jetro to run fine without a BOV, as the fluttering load cells are the same cells that you see at cruise, so you can only tune it to suit one of the conditions... runs rich on gearchanges

Kinks how does my daily ride have any bearing on a thread about blow off valves? begone troll.

I hate dosing, just makes me think of wankers in VL Turbos, and the noise gets grating on my ears very quickly.

Mine's a Turbosmart Supersonic BOV, I like the sound, and the cops around here have never given a toss about it, and yes ive let it off near them accidentely, but chances are if they are pulling you over to defect you they're going to make something up if they dont find anything anyway. Having the stock crossover pipe helps, if I ever did get defected for it, its easy to swap with the stocker.

Can't find a video of anything that sounds like it, needless to say it dosen't sound like one of those godawful Blitz (or was it HKS? high pitched whistle) ones which sound like something from Need For Speed.

Edited by bozodos

I'm due for a new BOV as my standard one leaks like a sieve (and yes I have tryed the "no more leaking BOV mod" to all you smarties with your stock BOV's)

I'll go a turbosmart plumbback, Hopefully it'll be quite.

I used to think the BOV noises were pretty cool, but after seeing (rather hearing) every other Tom, Dick and Harry with one on there piece of shit I don't want a noisy one.

I hate it when people put them on there car to trick you into looking at there Daihatsu's and other pieces of crap.

I'm due for a new BOV as my standard one leaks like a sieve (and yes I have tryed the "no more leaking BOV mod" to all you smarties with your stock BOV's)

Is the BOV rooted? If the spring isn't tensioning the diaphragm properly put the BOV in a vice and crush it down a little. That will increase spring tension, meaning more boost needed to force it open.

I've read about doing this on SAU, haven't tried myself (but the 'stop leaking BOV' mod worked a treat :blink: ) so if your car turns into a fireball blame the shonky b**tard that originally said it.

kthxlater

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...