Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a R32 GTS-T. I put a R33 turbo on it. It has a HKS adjustable acuator. I have it set at .5 bar. Going to set it at .8 or .9. I have a catback exhaust, intake.

What else should I do next? I have a R34 SMIC that I haven't put on yet.

I want to get the most out of this turbo that I can. Should I get a GTR fuel pump or a Nismo 4L pump? Should I put in GTR injectors or Nismo ones or keep stock? Do I need a aftermarket computer now? Should I go with the down pipe/ front pipe? Do I have to tune if so?

Later, in the winter time, I will buy a friends TD06 but cant afford it right now. Later going to get Emanage, and FMIC.

I have read and read and I really don't know where I should go from here. There is a big improvement in response and speed just from having the R33 turbo on there.

Help!

I want to do next important upgrading!!! I live in Japan and the area where I live gets only about 30-32 degrees celcius in the summer on average.

Edited by 335

well i have a stock rb20 with rb25 turbo, 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat), bosch 910 pump with surge tank, 600x300 fmic, safc II, manual boost controller (turbo tech) & thats it.

gives a responsive 250hp atw, but larger turbo, injectors afm & nistune flash will be going on pretty soon.

well i have a stock rb20 with rb25 turbo, 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat), bosch 910 pump with surge tank, 600x300 fmic, safc II, manual boost controller (turbo tech) & thats it.

gives a responsive 250hp atw, but larger turbo, injectors afm & nistune flash will be going on pretty soon.

Cool

Why the surge tank? Does the fmic give much lag? The reason I am going with the R34 smic is because I read on this forum that it is about 50% bigger than stock. So its shorter travel for the air to the turbo so hopefully not a lot of lag.

What kind of larger turbo are you putting on? What is a nistune flash? Why a safc II instead of a computer?

Thanks

I would put the exhaust and r34 smic before boosting. Its best to no not go past 14psi on stock r33 turbo otherwise it starts to get risky. But when u do boost, you should get a tune.

I would put the exhaust and r34 smic before boosting. Its best to no not go past 14psi on stock r33 turbo otherwise it starts to get risky. But when u do boost, you should get a tune.

Thanks

I will finish the exhaust(downpipe, front pipe, better cat) after I get a computer. I will put the smic on within the next two weeks. Busy with work. I will not be able to buy a computer and tune for about 1 to 2 months due to having to use money for something else. Is this fine? I will make sure not to set it about 14 psi.

Cool

Why the surge tank? Does the fmic give much lag? The reason I am going with the R34 smic is because I read on this forum that it is about 50% bigger than stock. So its shorter travel for the air to the turbo so hopefully not a lot of lag.

What kind of larger turbo are you putting on? What is a nistune flash? Why a safc II instead of a computer?

Thanks

yeah the surge tank is a bit of overkill but it & the pump were installed by the previous owner when the car had a different motor.

this setup is very responsive with sfa lag imo & i wouldnt run anything else but a decent fmic.

it has custom cooler pipes & the cold side pipe (after the cooler) is fairly short compared to some setups ive seen.

anyway i dont mind a bit of lag especially if you can run say 20psi & have a real good hit of power.

the safc was put on by a previous owner cause when he bought the car it had been bought back to pretty much stock. it was running autronics & hks turbo etc before he bought it.

the car is making reasonable power with its basic mods & a lot of that is probably due to the safc.

im going for a nistune flash instead of a new complete ecu cause they are only about 800 bux tuned & do the job i believe.

the turbo thats going on is a s/hand (6 months old) Apexi AX53B70 P-25, its a bit smaller than i probably would have liked but for $1000 for the complete apexi kit (turbo, dump, braided lines, etc) it was pretty hard to pass up.

cheers

Edited by norwest_rumbler

Hi mate I have headed down the same path as you when you do decide to

go down the path with a computer upgrade to handle all these mods.

I would higly recommend that you go n see Dr Drift for a reflash chip for

the std computer as this is what I have done and the results have been

unreal totally different car to drive shit loads more mid range and can

drive the car on the throttle more around the race track.This has been

the best mod I have done on the car so far,and a lot cheaper than a pfc.

Good luck with it

he lives in japan so are these reflash options really viable?

can he send them his ecu & they modify it & flash a generic tune to suit his mods?

i would have thought a live/real time tune was the only type worth having

Are you telling me that there is no-one in Japan that can do a CHIP for a car/motor/ecu that's been around IN JAPAN for 19 years?

Not saying DR-Drift is good, but he lives in Japan FFS.. we get cars come over here with MINES chips etc.

why would he not do this instead of getting DR-DRIFT or toshi or cef11e to tune for a fuel we don't even have here??

Are you telling me that there is no-one in Japan that can do a CHIP for a car/motor/ecu that's been around IN JAPAN for 19 years?

Not saying DR-Drift is good, but he lives in Japan FFS.. we get cars come over here with MINES chips etc.

why would he not do this instead of getting DR-DRIFT or toshi or cef11e to tune for a fuel we don't even have here??

There are places here, but I dont know where a lot are. Plus they charge crazy money here for a lot of this stuff. I try to put on as much stuff as possible getting help from friends. But none of my friends know how to tune.

How can I contact DR. Drift?

Are you telling me that there is no-one in Japan that can do a CHIP for a car/motor/ecu that's been around IN JAPAN for 19 years?

Not saying DR-Drift is good, but he lives in Japan FFS.. we get cars come over here with MINES chips etc.

why would he not do this instead of getting DR-DRIFT or toshi or cef11e to tune for a fuel we don't even have here??

Fair enough I didn't read that he lives in Japan FFS!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...