Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know how to get this out? Ive got most of it out, just the part that bolts into the front diff seems to be hitting out on the cross member or what ever it is? seems there is a bolt you can undo but im not sure if this would be wise? I was thinking that maybe i just fit the boot with this still attatched to the diff?? I dunno, id prefer to get the whole lot out. But if someone can point me in the right direction that would be great! Cheers

Pull the shaft using a slide hammer.

When I pulled my engine, I just pulled the front diff cover off and levered the center of the shaft in the diff center.

It's held in with a round wire retaining clip that compresses when the shaft is popped out through the spline of the diff.

Hope that helps :rofl:

Ah righto, well i have the shaft out, just that last bit that bolts to the diff housing. But i didnt realise it had a clip in it. but just seems it still wont make it out ay. Ill have another look. Dont really wanna go to the extent of taking the diff cover off haha. Thanks for the reply

Cheers

Pull the shaft using a slide hammer.

When I pulled my engine, I just pulled the front diff cover off and levered the center of the shaft in the diff center.

It's held in with a round wire retaining clip that compresses when the shaft is popped out through the spline of the diff.

Hope that helps :worship:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...