Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so here it goes:

*cars a s13 with a rb20 in it, all wiring is fine to the ecu and such, there were problems but all fixed!

*so i currently have no speedo or reverse lights, i did have the rpm but i tried to install a tacho in, by using the yellow wire with red stripe, still tacho did not work, and when i reconnected the wires together the way i found them, the rpm meter wont move now???? FFS argh

car currently has the ca18de electric instrument cluster, will i need to get a r32 one + the cable wires so it all works? will the cluster bolt straight in?

any help would be absolutely helpful as the other forums i posted the same question in, did not help 1 bit

thanks all!!!

If youre running rb20 ecu ca18 cluster will not work. You need rb20 cluster. Mate has R31 skyline with dodgy cluster we tried pintara cluster which look almost completely identical, plug in and readings are out of wack.

Good luck.

mate for starters the original tacho will never work with the rb20 computer as the signal is different. secondly i'm pretty sure the s13 came out with a transducer type speedo where the r32 comes out with a cable driven speedo. the reverse lights don't work because they're not hooked up or fuse could be blown.

Edited by 116.hks

i am about to aquire a silvia with the same problem has rb20det in the s13 which is runnning a ca18 dash, the speedo works apparently but that is it...i was going to try find a rb20pin out diagram for the ecu and try match it to the wires off the back of the ca18 cluster..this won't work? if not like the original post said..will an r32 dash bolt in? cheers, Hame.

  • 1 month later...

I has rb20 in s13 with ca18 cluster.. u need to use the ca18 sender from the gearbox and slap that on the rb20 gearbox.. but im still running into afew problems myself. over all rb20 >.> into s13 is a shit idea better off getting a rb25 works out alot cheaper

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...