Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Browsing the forum this morning I noticed a thread which asked "What would you do to your skyline?". So I'm asking you, all money aside, what would you do to your current car?

Crazy engine conversions? wide body? custom made rims?

Personaly with my GTS-t I'd do a 2jz conversion or maybe a 20b rotary for something different. Twin setup for response. Spray it matte black or similar, black 19" TE37, stock kit. Make it real sleeper.

What would you do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230226-what-would-you-do-to-your-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

id keep it AND buy a 35 gtr. nah i'd go drift spec, Vertex kit with wheels that hang wider than the kit, drift lip, drop in a rb28dett with forged internals, couple of responsive turbo's.

i would replace everything with brand new items (like seals and interior things and all that)

chuck a worked off its tits RB30DETT in. Respray me car black with a dark green pearl and chuck some 19" black Nismo LMGT4's on it :(

and now i just woke up and reality just kicked in :)

LOL I kind of already did it.....

post-9420-1217385781_thumb.jpg

If i could go back i would have gone rb26 instead of spending what i have on the rb20! Apart from that i did what i wanted to do!

^^

GRIM is the r32 that has everything done to it, very very nice...

You dont see many "off tap" RB20s around tho ben. its a killa ride :(

LOL I kind of already did it.....

post-9420-1217385781_thumb.jpg

If i could go back i would have gone rb26 instead of spending what i have on the rb20! Apart from that i did what i wanted to do!

and kind of already doing it again with the 260 :(

I would.... completely respray the car inside out - same factory colour, retrim the interior - black leather with red stitching, 18" wheels - nismo LMGT4, every suspension component replaced with new or aftermarket parts and slightly lowered, and work the motor up realllllllll good. Eventually I'll do it all :(

^^

GRIM is the r32 that has everything done to it, very very nice...

You dont see many "off tap" RB20s around tho ben. its a killa ride :)

Cheers Joel, im rather proud of my work on it, i will miss it when i eventually sell it! And no i wouldnt say theres too many 32's with that extent of work to it in SA!

and kind of already doing it again with the 260 :)

Yeah i kind of have gotten a little carried away there havent i Damo! lol! Just wait for the next project that will come when GRIM goes! ;)

I'd love to fully strip and restore the 33 piece by piece; engine, body, and running gear...

Throw in aftermarket & forged goodies, but keep it stealth/factory looking as possible...

If only i had the time and patience to begin with! (money aside)

So you found a thread and decided to start another exactly the same????? ok..

with my current 33 I'd just do the normal get it back to perfect condition interior and exterior with only a few personallised bits and pieces..

The fun starts when I buy my 2nd 33....

Make a ute out of it like in my sig!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...