Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

I have a alarm system and the remote doesn't seem to operate as it should.

thought randomly it works fine.

I assumed it was the battery, but when I replaced it it was still the same.

anyone have a rough idea of what may be the issue or is it simply the fact my remote is stuffed?

If there is anymore information I need to share to assist with someone helping me.

please let me know.

Regards

Sloane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230330-alarm-remote-not-operating/
Share on other sites

I have the smae problem wuth my remote.

I used to try changing the battery, I now just crack the shits and tap the remote on something...... lol not the best fix, but it makes me feel better :)

If any one knows a way to fix this issue,I would also be greatful for the information.

yeah mate had the exact problem with a customers car at work. pulled it apart and found two dry solder joints. resolder them and it worked like a treat. if you are good with a solder iron then give it a go cos if you take else where they will tell you to replace the remote.

Same god damn problem with me aswell!

Curse the previous owner who had to install a shitty eBay alarm grrr !!

Solder it aye? Hmm.

And what if that doesnt work lol ?

I played around with the 2 dials in the remote..

Didnt do anything for me.

MRXTCZ

Curse the previous owner who had to install a shitty eBay alarm grrr !!

Solder it aye? Hmm.

Don't touch it unless you have a back up plan if you stuff it up lol

I notice its been working fine when I point remote to engine direction :ermm:

I remember I've got a Spare Remote but its at a relatives so will have to pick it up.

I lurk on a huge list of forums, lol.

And your dead right, dont try to fix the remote if you dont have a fail-safe plan, that's just asking for trouble, and will put you into a bad situation.

With my previous car, someone installed a cheap ebay POS alarm, and wired it in quite stupidly, so I had the car towed (became unstartable) to an auto electrician and set him to task to remove the mess and set the car back to stock.

He did this, and then I went and got a proper alarm system installed in the car.

B.

  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys

stupid remote not working again

i tried my spare remote to see if it worked and didn't do anything either....

now I'm getting all sorts of weird beeping and basically have no friggin central locking meaning i need to open door via the key.....

and to start my car now I have to put key in ignition

set the alarm off then press remote to disable immobiliser and alarm (only time it seems to work)

just to start my car!!!! :sleep:

I'm going to ring the installers tomorrow who installed the alarm about the issues I'm having.

I got this installed on 25th January 2008

spent about $2200 at their workshop

Just curious as to whether they should fix this issue under a warranty?

Can some please verify that.

If all goes down the drain I will be seeing Chris Rogers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...