Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to hear some other opinions/advice on what to do next.

Have a rb25 r32, and current mods are:

splitfires

electronic boost controller

3 inch exhaust from turbo back

apexi pod (looking for a arc type box if anybody has one)

high flow fuel pump

I have purchased a pfc for it, but am planning on finding a turbo for it as well, probably a 2535, or similar, as well as a front facing plenum. i was planning on holding off on installing the pfc until i purchased a turbo, but due to just buying a house, i don't think i will have any funds available to get a turbo for a few more months.

I was wondering whether I should just install the pfc now, and have the car tuned, or would people recommend that I hold off for a few more months, as it would be a waste of money to fork out cash for a tune, only to retune it in 6 months or so.

Couple of variables are also thrown into the equation:

1) currently i get a sort of whine in the high rpms (5000+) when the car is under load. my previous mechanic was unable to tell me what the problem is (which is the reason they are my previous mechanic, and I will be taking it to somebody else), but one suggestion that was thrown out was that the turbo may be on the way out. sounded like a boost leak to me, but all the piping was pretty thoroughly checked, so no idea where the noise may be coming from. if the turbo is on the way out, no point installing the pfc if i can't wind the boost up to 10-11psi

2) at the moment, due to having a work car, the skyline gets driven once a fortnight, so the 6 month wait for the turbo, would only equate to roughly 12 or so drives or the car.

What do you guys think? I think the argument appears to be stacked in holding off, but the one or two times I drive the car in a fortnight, really put a smile on my face, and I have been itching to take it out for a track day or drag day.

having just completed mods on mine that took 10 months, i reckon u should wait and get it done once and properly. will be much cheaper that way and u can get a clear idea on what u are going to use the car for before you mod it. a serious track car is very different from a good streeter, and a hybrid is difficult to get right. and 6 months isnt that long to wait to do the job properly.

yeah mate, hold off. If the car is running fine(ish) then just hold off til you can afford the rest of the stuff. my recommendation for a turbo would be the HKS 2835 pro s kit. just my recommendation. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...