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Hey...i recently blew up my engine, in my R32 GTST...too much boost and it was running too lean...looks like it blew a hole in the piston...anyway its stuffed

So rather than fix it...i picked up a half cut for CHEAP($1600) with 70,000km's on it and completelly stock...which happened to have an auto gear box in it

...So, will the new engine go straight onto my manual box...and will the ECU out of the auto be any good for a manual...im asuming there the same

the reason i want the other ECU is cos mine had been tuned by Mines in japan and i wanna start a fresh cos the other was maped for japanese fuel etc...

Also is there anyway to convert japanese dates to ours...i got stuff in the glovebox which says 15/3/29

thanks

Note: its easy to run more boost...but remember that u will need more fuel...or u r car will end up like mine...and its not fun :D

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Is there any way to re-map the ECU here in Oz?

Also, just a few quick questions, i'm about to wind up the boost in my rb20, and wanted to know a safe level. What were you running when it blew?

And with your half cut, did it come with the headlights? Coz i need both left and right headlights and indicators... If you have them, i'm willing to buy them off you...

Cheers. Matt.

i was running 12-13psi when it blew....so if u do wind up the boost make sure u have enough fuel going through it

my halfcut only came with headlights...but i wanna keep them for mine as they are like new :D

i bet just the headlight on their own would cost about 1/4 of the price of a half cut

hey..

need help..

i'm having engine problems while i was cruising at around 30km/h...

my mech said my engine blew....

the engine looks perfect externally...

n he adviced me to convert the engine rather than to fix it...

what advice do u guys have n how much would i be looking at if i were to fix it n to convert the engine..

thanks....

JO3, sounds like u r in the same boat as me

is u r car standard...if no what mods have u dont

wouldnt hurt to check u r fuel pump

It was cheaper for me to just buy a half cut than it was to fix my engine...only $1600 for a auto R32 GTST thats done 70,000km's

that way u have heaps of spares and u will be all set

Im just swaping over the engines myself...cheaper than a mechanic

do u know what exacilly went wrong with u r car???

mine was running too lean and blew a hole in the piston

I hope this helps!

Its either buy the front cut like hawker stated or outlay another 500-600 for a standard RB30DET rebuild OR slap forged pistions and shot peened rods in to the RB30DET which will add around another 2k on top of the 2300 for the standard RB30DET rebuild inc. the RB25DE non-vct head.

Its really not worth going the RB25DET as you have to do the whole ecu thing, change plenums etc etc and it doesn't look stock.

The RB25DE Non vct head uses the Rb20DET plenum, exhaust manifold & injectors & ecu. Then chip the ecu to suit the setup and yoru hauling arse with the std. terd on full boost under 2k.

Or a RB25DET turbo making 200rwkw and full boost still under 2k.

Or 300rwkw :D

No more worrying about the Auto V8's off the line and having to get the rev's up quickly incase they gun it. :D

Only if you keep the bottom end stock and leave the head as it is & do the labour of fitting the motor your self.

i.e

RB25DE Head - $750

RB25DE VRS Kit - $275

RB30E Short Motor - $150

RB30E Rebuild std. Internals, Nissan bearings, bolts & origional pistons, balanced - $1100

Waterpump - $80

Coolant - $60

Oil - $60

I've rebuilt the head and had it ported polished, 3 cut valve job, comb. chamber cleaned up and polished etc. The head work cost all up inc part $1100.

Then you add the price of the RB25DE head on top of that which I picked up for $750 from Adelaide Jap.

If you rebuild a RB30E short motor with standard NA pistons & balanced I was quoted $1100 from City Dismantlers. I then decided against and decided on forged pistons, shot peened rods, o-ringed block.

This has bumped the price up by around another 2k.

My RB20DET manifold bolts straight on and with the RB25DE VRS kit I bought for $275 it has both plenum and inlet manifold gaskets, head gasket, exhaust gasket, cam seals, rocker cover gaskets, valve stem seals. So thats the top end gaskets done.

It is possible to use the RB20DET oil pump but that is the next decision along with which ecu to get. I was told to budget on 4.5-5k for a Motec or Autotronic from Turbo Tune so i'll throw that Idea out the window and stick with the AP Engineering PowerFC that will be heading over from Greenline for $1398 inc. postage & gst.

I dont know what to do:(

Maybe i should start reading the RB30 thread:(

There is a slight noise from my engine bay on start up... im hoping its some engine ancillary:rolleyes: but the noise warants attention.

I hope the engine is ok for a few dyno pulls with the new turbo. I want to see what a RB20 (albeit perhaps a worn RB20) can muster with a nice turbo setup and a healthy dash of boost.

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