Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

read -Joel- 's rb30 diy guide. It explains the answers. Why would you want to swap the 25de cams for the 25det cams? I've been told they are more aggressive (de) than the turbo (25det) cams. Apparently 25de cams slightly lump when put into a turbo engine

the rb25's in the last r32's had no VVT. This makes them perfect to use in the rb30/25 hybrid conversion if you dont want hassles of trying to connect it all up. -Joel- has compared the inlet manifold from the rb25de motor, that came with his head, and yes - it does look exactly the same as the rb20 inlet manifold.

My pride wont let me put an RB25 or RB30 in my car, i want to fly the RB20 flag:(

If i could use the RB20 looking manifold off the 32 RB25 then at least i could cheat by using RB20 rocker covers and claim that an RB20 can produce all this power and torque;)

yes you can. The inlet manifold, the exhaust manifold, everything bolts up. The only thing changed in this conversion in an r32 need be 1) the r32 rb25de head. 2) the series 2 rb30 block. EVERYTHING else is RB20. The waterpump, oilpump, gearbox, computer, injectors, etc. Even the cover over the coils that says NISSAN 24 valve.....

  • Like 1

But if the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold stud pattern is the same as the RB20DETs, then this means the Greddy RB25DET Inlet Plenum wont match up as the flange/bolt patterns (not to mention water galleries etc) are different from R32 RB20DET to R33 RB25DET.

Is this right???

  • 7 years later...

sorry to dig up a prehistoric thread lmao, save myself from opening another thread,slightly off topic and question is, has any1 put rb25de cams into an rb25det?, what would be involved and is it worth while? providing both rb25s have vct (r33 s2) any feedback would be great thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...