Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like allways ,I have lots of ideas ,but short of money and looking for something found this(I have a fujitsubo muffler)

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...en%26safe%3Doff

and this one (love the sound)

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...en%26safe%3Doff

(After months of having my car last week was the first time somebody seat on my car and press the gas and I hear it ...lovely sound :domokun: )

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Again ,looking around what upgrade to do to my car(cheap is the name of the game)I crossed myself with this 3" dump/front pipe ,I like the flexible part (should make fitting a bit easier).the thing is ,are R33 and stagea S2 dump/front pipes compatible????????

rb_dp_fp.jpg

Again ,looking around what upgrade to do to my car(cheap is the name of the game)I crossed myself with this 3" dump/front pipe ,I like the flexible part (should make fitting a bit easier).the thing is ,are R33 and stagea S2 dump/front pipes compatible????????

rb_dp_fp.jpg

love the random 2.5" to 3" jump... i have seen these in person and wouldn't fit one to my car.

i also think the 2-3" jump is a bit dodge. but to answer your question, i have a cheapo R33 dump pipe on my s2, just had to change the angle of the long straight piece so it met up with the cat ok. that flexi section may help with this, i cant remember how much i had to change the angle but those flexi pieces only bend slightly.

excuse me if this seems like a stupid question, but i realise everyone wants the dump and front pipe to make up the "turbo back" system, but i was just wondering what about extractors???? does anyone have them or are they no real improvement once you've got the dump pipe hanging off the turbo?

just curious ppls

cheers, Bradd

you mean an exhaust manifold.

maybe one day I'll grab a decent brand name stainless steel mig welded 2nd hand item off ebay (around $450US)

same goes for the intake manifold, one day would like a Greddy plenum, rerouting the fmic as neccesary

Hi all,

Just wondering, of those of you that have fitted a large hi-flow cat' (the round stainless style with 3" flanges and 4" or 5" body), how close does your cat' sit to the ground? My ride height is currently about 395mm centre to guards and I already have too little clearance there for my liking. My cat' is the lowest point on the car. If I go any lower, even 20 or 30mm, I fear I might collect speed humps!

Edited by DaveB
you mean an exhaust manifold.

maybe one day I'll grab a decent brand name stainless steel mig welded 2nd hand item off ebay (around $450US)

same goes for the intake manifold, one day would like a Greddy plenum, rerouting the fmic as neccesary

cheers mate, so the standard exhaust manifolds are pretty good up to say 300kw or so??? like you wouldn't put one on unless you were putting a custom plenum on as well?

yeah looks like the dump pipe is 2.5"?

standard chinese shit... DO NOT BUY

excuse me if this seems like a stupid question, but i realise everyone wants the dump and front pipe to make up the "turbo back" system, but i was just wondering what about extractors???? does anyone have them or are they no real improvement once you've got the dump pipe hanging off the turbo?

just curious ppls

cheers, Bradd

a turbo charged car does not have the "extractors" that a naturally aspirated car has, on an NA car, you have the head, the extracters/headers(on a 4banger they are 4-2-1 or 4-1) then the rest of the exhaust.

on a turbo car you have the exhaust manifold hanging off of the head, with the turbo on that, then from the exhaust of the turbo- the first bit is called the dump or down pipe, then from there too the cat is the "front" pipe, then your cat, then the catback system which ideally has a midmuffler then the rear muffler

cool thanks for clearing that up for me ryan, just wasn't sure how it all worked with the "turbo back" system

now time for a dump/front pipe, is it better to get a dump and front in one piece or to get the spilt dump pipe with a separate front pipe?

cool thanks for clearing that up for me ryan, just wasn't sure how it all worked with the "turbo back" system

now time for a dump/front pipe, is it better to get a dump and front in one piece or to get the spilt dump pipe with a separate front pipe?

personally I would go a proper 3" bellmouth, not the chinese spilt's...

yeh thats what i thought too, just lookin at a couple on ebay, there's one that is a 3"bellmouth design dump and front pipe in one for a 33 (which means it should fit my S2 ) i dont see what the advantage is of having a split dump pipe anyways, its all going into one pipe anyways?? :S

yeh thats what i thought too, just lookin at a couple on ebay, there's one that is a 3"bellmouth design dump and front pipe in one for a 33 (which means it should fit my S2 ) i dont see what the advantage is of having a split dump pipe anyways, its all going into one pipe anyways?? :S

I've had good dealings with http://www.justjap.com/

Greg from GKtech is a champ too, but i wasn't impressed with his RB product.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...