Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm currently talking to a machinist who's willing to knock me up 5 pairs of caliper extension brackets for R32 GTS-ts.

They will mean that you will be able to run 324mm rotors (R33 GTR size) but use your standard calipers which have almost the same pad area as the Brembos. So good budget upgrade if you get yourself some rotors (like in the RDA group buy). The rotors there are worth around $300 delivered if I remember correctly.

Now I'm just waiting for the exact dimensions off a bloke that has the UAS ones and then I can give the machinist the drawings and he'll make em for me. Material will be aerospace grade 7075 T651 aluminium (higher yield stress than 4130 Chro-Moly steel, but 35% of the weight). Will have new high tensile bolts and stainless washers supplied with it. Then get yourself some rotors and you have big brakes for pretty damn cheap.

I still have to get exact sizes so I know how much material I need to buy, but I don't think they would be over $150 a pair.

UAS sell the kit for ~$900 with DBA4000 slotted rotors, so if this is right, it should come to under $500 for the same thing but RDA rotors instead (some say better than the DBAs for track work).

I'll be running these on my track car and I think Cubes is keen on a pair too (has also said I can post this thread here), so that leaves 3 other people that can get some big brakes for cheap. :D

So put your hand up if you're keen on some more stopping power.

Just a note, I'm fairly sure that these AREN'T street legal and I'm not sure if you'd be able to make them street legal. So this is aimed at people that track their R32s

Cheers

Showza

Edited by salad
Salad... No doubt these would also suit R33's.

The R33's will ahve a different offset as they have 296mm rotor standard, and the R32's had a 280mm rotor. They will work but the design will be slightly different.

If the quote comes back being more than $150 give my brother a call Growly Custom Machining as he was going to make up some designs for the same thing and he was looking at them being around $150.

No worries will do. I am fairly sure these will come in a decent amount under $150, but have just put that price up as a worst case scenario.

The R33 ones need a different design as the spacing between the holes radially needs to be 14mm instead of 22mm, so it leaves bugger all material around the bolt holes, where the stresses are highest anyway. The UAS ones are sort of shaped so that the bolt holes aren't in a line, but moved over a little bit. So these ones wont work with R33, unless of course people want their pads hanging over the rotor by 8mm :ermm:

Edited by salad

ah spewn i was thinking in the shower :D that the calliper bolt patern would of been the same and shiz and since the mounting point is the same your just changing the radius of the rotor should of worked :ermm:

I'm fairly sure they're the UAS ones yeah? But yeah, they're going to be very similar to those, except will be much cheaper once you source the rotors from the RDA group buy. So yeah, definitely under $500 for the kit isntead of $900 like UAS sell :thumbsup:

Yes thats the Unique Auto Sports one

grab the bracket from your mate who has one and let us know if its the same and how much you can copy them for?

Im keen for sure , this bracket can also be used for R32 GTR owners who do not want to use this bracket which is a comprimise

post-43477-1218065176.jpg

this bracket requires cutting of the stone gaurd

but with the bracket in my previous post it can be used with 324mm rotors this bracket and a swap from gtr calipers to Z32 calipers same but shorter mounting legs so i should all fit up perfect

Cheers

SIR

I've done the conversion on my R32 gts-t but haven't been able to drive it hard yet. I'll let everyone know how it goes once I get around my current problem.

Salad - just make sure you get the offset right, the ones I got had the wrong offset so I had to get Growly Custom Machining to shave them down so the caliper was central with the rotor.

Edited by =premo=

SO How are those caliper brackets coming along Salad

should be done my now its been a couple of weeks so far where are you at???

UAS are selling them around $300 plus del i have not called them yet though

PM me if poss or post up the latest on these brackets cheers

SIR

Hey mate, sorry, but progress hasn't been great. The bloke that I was supposed to be getting the measurements off of is out of the country... So I can either measure stuff up myself, make sure they fit and then get those ones made, or wait longer and get the actual dimensions of the UAS ones and exactly copy the design.

I've done the stress analysis, and I'm fairly happy with it, except that I'm not sure what the temps will usually get up to, and the 7075 ally is very bad with heat, once it's over 90deg or so, the stuff gets a whole lot weaker, but I'm not sure how hot it would be touching the lugs on the caliper.

I want to get this all done quickly, but I also don't want to get something made that breaks on me and others.

Yep thats a fair call SALAS we are talking about brakes in the end so clever option get it right first up

UAS wont really seperate the adaptors for me so were asking$400 pair so i would not by just the bracket so

i just bought a wicked set off BREMBOS for my GTR TOUGH

full kit and some killa BREMBO pads nice a whole lot more but a whole lot more mracking

so my R32 GTR brake setup will for sale soon complete set up to suit the GTS-Ts etc

CHeers SALAD

SIR

90 degrees hey?? Um sorry be be a fun stopper but the caliper does get hot, remember that brake fluid absorbs water, and can boil in the caliper...thats over 100degress....

Besides the hub itself will get bloody hot from the wheel bearings..IMHO.I would be looking at using another material...

Yes the caliper itself gets quite hot, but how much of that heat goes into the caliper's lugs isntead of being disipated into the fluid, atmosphere, etc.

Ally does work as that's what UAS use, and many people have used those without issue.

The bearings can get hot, but I still don't think it's a huge problem when you're looking at the caliper flanges.

In the end, it's up to you if you want them or not, but it will be a copy of a design that has been proved to work (when I finally get the exact dimensions).

If you're really paranoid about it though, I can arrange for a different material to be used, such as 4130 steel but cost will be higher.

Edited by salad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...