Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what price were you quoted from GCG and what does it include?

XTRGTST-S1

The factory Turbocharger on a Nissan Skyline R32/33 GTS-T is a Ball Bearing, T3 sized unit, with a ceramic turbine wheel. In upgrading this unit, GCG replace the ball bearing pack with a new one, while replacing the Turbine wheel and Compressor wheel with larger steel wheels, making the Turbocharger Hi-Flowed Compressor, and Turbine end. The upgrade Turbocharger bolts directly back on the manifold with no modifications required, using the factory oil and water lines. After the Upgrade, the Turbocharger is rated 450hp.

Turnaround: 2-3 days.

Price: $1950.00

straight from site

Ive heard the better options are 2530? series turbo .. Evil Weevil runs on best to ask him but honestly so much stuffin around with a highflow it doesnt end up much cheaper. custom lines, new actuator etc so just buy a kit n bolt her up ..

Edited by DECIM8
Ive heard the better options are 2530? series turbo .. Evil Weevil runs on best to ask him but honestly so much stuffin around with a highflow it doesnt end up much cheaper. custom lines, new actuator etc so just buy a kit n bolt her up ..

that doesnt change with the kit, or so im told. its supposed to bolt straight back up like the standard one, as it should as nothing from the out side is changed.

im also contemplating getting one of these GCG turbos. whats there quality like? and power figures? ive seen them get 230rwkw quite well and thats the power i want, but are they the best turbos for that power figure regarding response and reliability?

ive asked around quite abit and so far im leaning towards this turbo, what do yous think?

Ive heard the better options are 2530? series turbo .. Evil Weevil runs on best to ask him but honestly so much stuffin around with a highflow it doesnt end up much cheaper. custom lines, new actuator etc so just buy a kit n bolt her up ..

^^ completly wroung.....

evil weevil run's a hks gt-rs, far better then a 2530....

also there is no modification's needed to run a highflow turbo EXCEPT in some case's depending on the style of highflow your oil supply line might need to be enlarged a lil..... atp,precision are some other's in sydney.

My bad with Evil's setup..

My turbo is Precision so in my case it was a slight pain in the ass..

However GCG sounds good.. I believe life time is about a year? Depends on treatment I think thats with some fair flogging.

It was the water lines which caused a bigger pain and the actuator

Edited by DECIM8

Im also looking at getting either my standard r33 turbo high flowed or replacing it. Im in melbourne however, and would love to no some good workshops who do this work. Weighing up the costs, it seems cheaper and less hassle to get the turbo highflowed and jsut bolt it back on and go, rather then payin so much more to get another turbo to fit (oil/water lines etc).

Im not sure though..

Please help guys

My bad with Evil's setup..

My turbo is Precision so in my case it was a slight pain in the ass..

However GCG sounds good.. I believe life time is about a year? Depends on treatment I think thats with some fair flogging.

It was the water lines which caused a bigger pain and the actuator

for 1950 and only get a year out of it??? that cant be right. if it is ill rather pay the extra 1k and get a gt-ss. my turbo's dont get the easiest of times.

Ive looking into alot of these pages and ive decieded to go with rebuild because of price. the mrs wont budge on the dollar amount and she thinks im only paying 1500 heh heh. I find it hard to believe that a stronger than standard turbo would only last a year. considering the stock has been cruising for 15yrs. besides i only intend to run about 15pound. So back to the origanal question does anyone have a site i can check out.

Edited by Landy
Im also looking at getting either my standard r33 turbo high flowed or replacing it. Im in melbourne however, and would love to no some good workshops who do this work. Weighing up the costs, it seems cheaper and less hassle to get the turbo highflowed and jsut bolt it back on and go, rather then payin so much more to get another turbo to fit (oil/water lines etc).

Im not sure though..

Please help guys

http://www.easternturbo.com.au/?g=1

http://www.atpturbo.com.au/

http://www.rotomaster.com.au/services.html

there is a group buy on the GCG hi-flow if you search which brings the price down to about $1750 last i checked.

a 2530 is a lower hp rated turbo.

there are a billion threads on which turbo and why but a GCG hi-flow is probably the cheapest upgrade (and getting all new rotating parts etc.) if you include all costs from removal to replacement.

When having your stock t3 turbo highflowed on a Series II skyline, how much pounds can you wind it up to? , im currently from melbourne, i would intrested in doing it to. :(

Thanks.

Edited by geraus
XTRGTST-S1

The factory Turbocharger on a Nissan Skyline R32/33 GTS-T is a Ball Bearing, T3 sized unit, with a ceramic turbine wheel. In upgrading this unit, GCG replace the ball bearing pack with a new one, while replacing the Turbine wheel and Compressor wheel with larger steel wheels, making the Turbocharger Hi-Flowed Compressor, and Turbine end. The upgrade Turbocharger bolts directly back on the manifold with no modifications required, using the factory oil and water lines. After the Upgrade, the Turbocharger is rated 450hp.

Turnaround: 2-3 days.

Price: $1950.00

straight from site

Thats interesting because i went to a place called PEP'S Auto Parts in Wetherill Park,noticed they sell GCG parts

I asked the salesman are they from GCG? He said yeh and claimed he was the representitive so i asked for a

price on high flowing my stadnard rb25 turbo from a r33 to suit my 32gtst.

Same parts and process as you listed above but the price i was quoted was $1100.

Can someone shed some light on that?

my guess $1950 is the headline price for a ball bearing hi-flow with you supplying a turbo or an exchange price.

my guess is $1100 is a bush bearing hi-flow price.

$1750 is the group buy ball bearing price.

i could be wrong but calling GCG is the easiest way to clear up what's what.

Edited by wolverine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...