Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a r32 that has been imported with a rb25 out of an r34 in it.

It doesn't have a rev limiter cause it goes al the way to 8000rpm!!

Ive put a bee r rev limiter in it, but it cant b too healthy for it cause she goes bang bang too much.

I would like the stock limiter back on cause i use it for driftin.

Does any one know where the stock limiter is located and how to connect it back up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231441-wheres-my-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

I always thought the standard limiter was built into the ecu. Someone probably retuned the ecu to have a higher rev limit?

A BeeR limiter will be safer on your motor than the standard one. Standard limiter cuts your fuel, your car runs lean and can damage the motor whereas the BeeR cuts the ignition, safer. With the BeeR you can choose when you want the limit to be as well which is good. Just set it to where the standard limit should be.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to be spreading wrong information I've read off others.

Stock limiter is safer for your turbos. Bee-R will kill them very quickly. The fuel goes in and the hot turbo ignites it, causing an explosion inside your turbine. Thats what the bang bang is. Hello new turbo. Also, if its safer to cut ignition, why doesnt any manufacturer do it?

Manufacturers don't expect retards to be banging the rev limiter though...

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Manufacturers don't have a rev limiter there so you can bounce off it everyday. It's there so in the 'rare' even you're stupid enough to go that high it does LESS damage than what an over-rev would do.Go sit on your rev limiter for a while and see what happens then. Do you know what happens when you hit the factory limiter? The cylinder pressures go AWOL and can easily cause some serious engine damage.

Engines are built to revved, sure. But rev an engine's tits off day in, day out and you'll soon be driving a less reliable car. Things will wear out much quicker and problems will start developing. I drive my car with respect, sure I pump it every now and then but never do I intentionally hit the limiter or thrash the shit out of it and that's why I haven't had a problem with it.

Hyundai and Kia sell cars because their market is people who want a cheap car. Buying a crap Korean car doesn't make you retarded wtf...

i think your missing reading his post.

they engineer cars and usually everything complex for that matter to be idiot proof or retarded as you may call it to some degree in the event that someone may be stupid enough to do what you just said.

Yeah, fair enough :)

I have a re-tune computer in my 32 and my rev limiter is at 8000rpm :thumbsup:

I was thinking, instead of getting a Bee-R, for the $350 odd that it costs i might as well just get an after market ecu.

I also heard that they can kill the factory ceramic wheel turbo pretty quickly and that steel wheel turbos are better suited?

Realisictly your only guessing it doesnt have a rev limiter if you have only reved it to 8,000.

I have seen 32's rev limiters from factory set at 8,200. With an Rb25 in it it could still be after 8000.

I'm not suggesting to go see if it is after 8,000 just pointing out that it might be higher.

To solve your problem of wanting a lower rev limiter without a Bee-r =

aftermarket ecu and set it yourself

or

retune stock ecu by someone like Dr Drift and get him to set it where you want.

Also, something to take into account. I've noticed that the factory tachometer needle can 'float'.

After installing my S-AFC (with digital rpm readout and peak hold) i noticed that the tacho needle would read higher than the car was actually revving. Say the tacho was reading 7500rpm the S-AFC would record a peak of say 6800rpm. So you may not be revving the car out as much as you think.

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there. In what instance do you need to be hitting the rev limiter? If your peak power were the last 1k-2k rpm in a race car sure... in which case your engine is built for what you expect to be a set life on that spinner anyway. On a car that spends time on the roads... swapping cogs should happen before that... 25 with stock crank and cams over 6k is just wet noise. Awsome noise the last 3rd rev range I grant you but.. not something to write home about.. 6-6.5k is a cog swap.. your 7k...(7.1krpm for s1 wanktards) is your hard limit. who waits on the rev limiter to change?

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there.

Traditionally all nissan tachos read high, but it sounds like you have a remapped ECU, send me a pic from inside the ECU and I'll let you know what's involved in lowering the limiter to a more sensible setting... may be as little as $50?

Sam

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...