Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a r32 that has been imported with a rb25 out of an r34 in it.

It doesn't have a rev limiter cause it goes al the way to 8000rpm!!

Ive put a bee r rev limiter in it, but it cant b too healthy for it cause she goes bang bang too much.

I would like the stock limiter back on cause i use it for driftin.

Does any one know where the stock limiter is located and how to connect it back up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231441-wheres-my-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

I always thought the standard limiter was built into the ecu. Someone probably retuned the ecu to have a higher rev limit?

A BeeR limiter will be safer on your motor than the standard one. Standard limiter cuts your fuel, your car runs lean and can damage the motor whereas the BeeR cuts the ignition, safer. With the BeeR you can choose when you want the limit to be as well which is good. Just set it to where the standard limit should be.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to be spreading wrong information I've read off others.

Stock limiter is safer for your turbos. Bee-R will kill them very quickly. The fuel goes in and the hot turbo ignites it, causing an explosion inside your turbine. Thats what the bang bang is. Hello new turbo. Also, if its safer to cut ignition, why doesnt any manufacturer do it?

Manufacturers don't expect retards to be banging the rev limiter though...

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Manufacturers don't have a rev limiter there so you can bounce off it everyday. It's there so in the 'rare' even you're stupid enough to go that high it does LESS damage than what an over-rev would do.Go sit on your rev limiter for a while and see what happens then. Do you know what happens when you hit the factory limiter? The cylinder pressures go AWOL and can easily cause some serious engine damage.

Engines are built to revved, sure. But rev an engine's tits off day in, day out and you'll soon be driving a less reliable car. Things will wear out much quicker and problems will start developing. I drive my car with respect, sure I pump it every now and then but never do I intentionally hit the limiter or thrash the shit out of it and that's why I haven't had a problem with it.

Hyundai and Kia sell cars because their market is people who want a cheap car. Buying a crap Korean car doesn't make you retarded wtf...

i think your missing reading his post.

they engineer cars and usually everything complex for that matter to be idiot proof or retarded as you may call it to some degree in the event that someone may be stupid enough to do what you just said.

Yeah, fair enough :)

I have a re-tune computer in my 32 and my rev limiter is at 8000rpm :thumbsup:

I was thinking, instead of getting a Bee-R, for the $350 odd that it costs i might as well just get an after market ecu.

I also heard that they can kill the factory ceramic wheel turbo pretty quickly and that steel wheel turbos are better suited?

Realisictly your only guessing it doesnt have a rev limiter if you have only reved it to 8,000.

I have seen 32's rev limiters from factory set at 8,200. With an Rb25 in it it could still be after 8000.

I'm not suggesting to go see if it is after 8,000 just pointing out that it might be higher.

To solve your problem of wanting a lower rev limiter without a Bee-r =

aftermarket ecu and set it yourself

or

retune stock ecu by someone like Dr Drift and get him to set it where you want.

Also, something to take into account. I've noticed that the factory tachometer needle can 'float'.

After installing my S-AFC (with digital rpm readout and peak hold) i noticed that the tacho needle would read higher than the car was actually revving. Say the tacho was reading 7500rpm the S-AFC would record a peak of say 6800rpm. So you may not be revving the car out as much as you think.

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there. In what instance do you need to be hitting the rev limiter? If your peak power were the last 1k-2k rpm in a race car sure... in which case your engine is built for what you expect to be a set life on that spinner anyway. On a car that spends time on the roads... swapping cogs should happen before that... 25 with stock crank and cams over 6k is just wet noise. Awsome noise the last 3rd rev range I grant you but.. not something to write home about.. 6-6.5k is a cog swap.. your 7k...(7.1krpm for s1 wanktards) is your hard limit. who waits on the rev limiter to change?

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there.

Traditionally all nissan tachos read high, but it sounds like you have a remapped ECU, send me a pic from inside the ECU and I'll let you know what's involved in lowering the limiter to a more sensible setting... may be as little as $50?

Sam

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...