Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought a r32 that has been imported with a rb25 out of an r34 in it.

It doesn't have a rev limiter cause it goes al the way to 8000rpm!!

Ive put a bee r rev limiter in it, but it cant b too healthy for it cause she goes bang bang too much.

I would like the stock limiter back on cause i use it for driftin.

Does any one know where the stock limiter is located and how to connect it back up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231441-wheres-my-rev-limiter/
Share on other sites

I always thought the standard limiter was built into the ecu. Someone probably retuned the ecu to have a higher rev limit?

A BeeR limiter will be safer on your motor than the standard one. Standard limiter cuts your fuel, your car runs lean and can damage the motor whereas the BeeR cuts the ignition, safer. With the BeeR you can choose when you want the limit to be as well which is good. Just set it to where the standard limit should be.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to be spreading wrong information I've read off others.

Stock limiter is safer for your turbos. Bee-R will kill them very quickly. The fuel goes in and the hot turbo ignites it, causing an explosion inside your turbine. Thats what the bang bang is. Hello new turbo. Also, if its safer to cut ignition, why doesnt any manufacturer do it?

Manufacturers don't expect retards to be banging the rev limiter though...

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

Manufacturers don't have a rev limiter there so you can bounce off it everyday. It's there so in the 'rare' even you're stupid enough to go that high it does LESS damage than what an over-rev would do.Go sit on your rev limiter for a while and see what happens then. Do you know what happens when you hit the factory limiter? The cylinder pressures go AWOL and can easily cause some serious engine damage.

Engines are built to revved, sure. But rev an engine's tits off day in, day out and you'll soon be driving a less reliable car. Things will wear out much quicker and problems will start developing. I drive my car with respect, sure I pump it every now and then but never do I intentionally hit the limiter or thrash the shit out of it and that's why I haven't had a problem with it.

Hyundai and Kia sell cars because their market is people who want a cheap car. Buying a crap Korean car doesn't make you retarded wtf...

i think your missing reading his post.

they engineer cars and usually everything complex for that matter to be idiot proof or retarded as you may call it to some degree in the event that someone may be stupid enough to do what you just said.

Yeah, fair enough :)

I have a re-tune computer in my 32 and my rev limiter is at 8000rpm :thumbsup:

I was thinking, instead of getting a Bee-R, for the $350 odd that it costs i might as well just get an after market ecu.

I also heard that they can kill the factory ceramic wheel turbo pretty quickly and that steel wheel turbos are better suited?

Realisictly your only guessing it doesnt have a rev limiter if you have only reved it to 8,000.

I have seen 32's rev limiters from factory set at 8,200. With an Rb25 in it it could still be after 8000.

I'm not suggesting to go see if it is after 8,000 just pointing out that it might be higher.

To solve your problem of wanting a lower rev limiter without a Bee-r =

aftermarket ecu and set it yourself

or

retune stock ecu by someone like Dr Drift and get him to set it where you want.

Also, something to take into account. I've noticed that the factory tachometer needle can 'float'.

After installing my S-AFC (with digital rpm readout and peak hold) i noticed that the tacho needle would read higher than the car was actually revving. Say the tacho was reading 7500rpm the S-AFC would record a peak of say 6800rpm. So you may not be revving the car out as much as you think.

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there. In what instance do you need to be hitting the rev limiter? If your peak power were the last 1k-2k rpm in a race car sure... in which case your engine is built for what you expect to be a set life on that spinner anyway. On a car that spends time on the roads... swapping cogs should happen before that... 25 with stock crank and cams over 6k is just wet noise. Awsome noise the last 3rd rev range I grant you but.. not something to write home about.. 6-6.5k is a cog swap.. your 7k...(7.1krpm for s1 wanktards) is your hard limit. who waits on the rev limiter to change?

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there.

Traditionally all nissan tachos read high, but it sounds like you have a remapped ECU, send me a pic from inside the ECU and I'll let you know what's involved in lowering the limiter to a more sensible setting... may be as little as $50?

Sam

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...