Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just bought a GTR and ill be pulling my EBC out of my GTSt to pu it into my GTR.

im not sure how to do it though.

there is 2 actuators for 2 turbos, so do i use a Y joiner to hook them both up to the solenoid? also im not sure where to hook it up to the FPR.

has any1 done it before? can you link pics?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231505-greddy-profec-b-spec-2-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

yeah its pretty easy assuming you have the standard piping under the plenum.

the pressure source for the new solenoid is a vacuum pipe which is at the rear of the plenum (underneath) hook that to the input of the solenoid. the output of the solenoid goes to one of the 2 pipes under the plenum just above the oil filter (it comes from the standard boost controller). Not sure if it is the top or the bottom one off the top of my head - you need to trace it around the motor, it is the standard line that goes to both wastegates.

when you've done that you need to block 2 points in the standard pipes - the hose that you remove from the plenum needs to be blocked, and the other line that goes to the standard boost solenoid has to be dropped too.

this is the easiest way, you can retain all the standard piping and even mount the new solenoid where the factory one normally sits.

Im about to fit the same controller to my Autech Stagea. Pics would be a great help. so far ive spent nearly 4 hours searching the net for info on how to fit one of these to a GTR.....lol

will have 2nd attempt tomorrow at fitting it!

Edited by BIT SUS
  • 2 weeks later...
yeh its hard hey lol. unless i see some awesome pics ill be getting my mechanic to do it...

there is nothing on the net for the Greddy EBC into a gtr :dry:

you and me both man!!!!

FFS!

*takes a big deep breath

i sort of got a rough idea how to do it... just by tracing the vacum line from the wastegates of both turbos back around the plenum side of the engine but i lose sight of the line under the plenum lol....

its hopeless lol

sorry my next post went missing in the forum move. the top pipe of the 2 under the plenum is the one that goes straight to the wastgates. so give it a shot joeleo87

to make sure you have it right, turn the boost controller off (ie standard boost) pull 2nd gear on some open road, when you get to about 3500rpm if it goes over 14psi its not right....just get straight off the throttle if its wrong as long as you are paying attention everything will be fine.

sorry my next post went missing in the forum move. the top pipe of the 2 under the plenum is the one that goes straight to the wastgates. so give it a shot joeleo87

to make sure you have it right, turn the boost controller off (ie standard boost) pull 2nd gear on some open road, when you get to about 3500rpm if it goes over 14psi its not right....just get straight off the throttle if its wrong as long as you are paying attention everything will be fine.

so if its the wrong hose. it will just boost right up? and no damage whats so ever?

ill give it a go tonight duncan :(

if it works ill make a DIY!

um thats not quite what I meant.

If its wrong it will boost to eleventy billion - so if it goes past 14psi get straight off the throttle. If its wrong, and you keep your foot down you willl kill turbos and/or engine.

If its right it will stop at the right place and you will enjoy the extra boost :rolleyes:. make sure the controller is off when you test - this will mean you only get standard 12-14psi boost

i was thinking duncan, can i just replace the stock boost solenoid with the EBC 1?

or will that just poo things? to eleventy billion?

where do you hook up the unit's vacuum line? it says in the guide to connect it to the fuel pressure regulator? where might i find that?

photos would be a great help right now...

im lost :S

Edited by BIT SUS
where do you hook up the unit's vacuum line? it says in the guide to connect it to the fuel pressure regulator? where might i find that?

photos would be a great help right now...

im lost :S

thats the ezy part man.

if you follow the fuel rail (where the injectors are) at the end (radiator side) you'll find the FPR, there will be a small hose coming off it going into the engine, you put the 'Y' connection :P

The ezy way is to just replace the stock boost controler valve. Its very simple an is just as effective. I did my 32 gtr this way any had not problems.

I have also tried it with the controler mounted on the passenger suspension tower with the hoses cut in near the actuator's. It's a lot harder to do and you have to be confident with removing the top turbo pipes to gain access.....

Also as a note to all tune all the setting on the sontroler right down and slowly adjust them up...I started at about 50% on all settings and it was way to high. Start at about 5% on everything and work your way up to your desired boost setting.

i just installed the vacuum line to the Fuel pressure regulator. Ive got a strange feeling that my car is already running 14psi.. even without the solenoid connected up to the main unit. I hope not, cos then i will be dissapointed after my tune...

.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...