Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:O

nothing worst then being disappointed with a tune/dyno.

does the stk boost gauge read +7? coz thats 14 psi. if you dont have a tune or remap etc you shouldnt be running 14psi, not sure what stk setting is for 260s it wont be 14 psi tho.

:O

nothing worst then being disappointed with a tune/dyno.

does the stk boost gauge read +7? coz thats 14 psi. if you dont have a tune or remap etc you shouldnt be running 14psi, not sure what stk setting is for 260s it wont be 14 psi tho.

Stock boost guage reads 7..... i only picked this car up a few weeks ago.... so who knows whats been done to it

The standard boost gauge reads in mm/Hg, 7 is around 14psi.

12psi is standard for an rb26 but there is a small restrictor in the line to the standard boost controller. If you remove that it increases the boost to a nice stable 14psi. Nissan were kind enough to mark the location of the restrictor with a yellow band on the vacuum hose - so if you find the yellow band and no restrictor that is why you are running 14psi....

The standard boost gauge reads in mm/Hg, 7 is around 14psi.

12psi is standard for an rb26 but there is a small restrictor in the line to the standard boost controller. If you remove that it increases the boost to a nice stable 14psi. Nissan were kind enough to mark the location of the restrictor with a yellow band on the vacuum hose - so if you find the yellow band and no restrictor that is why you are running 14psi....

ok. so my EBC is plumbed into the FPR, and car is still running stock solenoid and controller etc. So basically its just a digital boost gauge right now...

The peak reading was 18.8PSI... which scares me..... why would it be this high? especially with that restrictor still in place? or boost cut on the computer?

Did Autech remap the ECU to allow more boost?

Do i have a stuck wastegate?

Could first owner in japan have changed the turbos?

What is a safe pressure for a stock RB26? with ceramic turbos?

car goes in for a tune tomorrow morning, so im trying to dig up as much information as i can!

i'm lost well and truly now.

Edited by BIT SUS

Think i found why the car is running 18 Psi....

Had a mate look over the car and took him for a spin.

He said its gotta have hi-flowed turbos and maybe hi flowed injectors, cos it goes harder than any stock GTR he's been in.

Ahem.

Does this mean the ECU has some serious tune and the boost restrictor has been removed?

umm no not necessarily, its possible just running 19psi instead of 14 makes the difference. If its running that high you should get the turbos checked out, and your tune (probably has a tuned computer of some sort like you said). It wont run 19psi with the standard system, so "something" has been done to it.

hi mate I'm not sure, would have to trace all the lines properly...the way I posted above is the way I did it which is similar. You need to keep the lines as short as possible to minimise spiking

umm no not necessarily, its possible just running 19psi instead of 14 makes the difference. If its running that high you should get the turbos checked out, and your tune (probably has a tuned computer of some sort like you said). It wont run 19psi with the standard system, so "something" has been done to it.

I just checked out the computer, its stock, not a power FC or anything, so i assume its had some tuning.

Someone said that the stock wastegates only hold 14psi, unless fitted with a stiffer wastegate spring?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...