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How To: Remove Standard Turbo & Install Kkr480


H@ME
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You obviously have the boost controller now, but the Gizzmo ones are good and cheap @ $249! Make sure you let the car idle before turning it off now that you have a non water cooled turbo.. Otherwise you will burn the oil that sits in the turbo, and maybe prematurely destroy the turbo too.

all taken care of i have an apexi avcd for boost controll and apexi turbo timer for cooling issues. dw i maintain n look after my car well :) thanks for concern though! cheers hame

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
all taken care of i have an apexi avcd for boost controll and apexi turbo timer for cooling issues. dw i maintain n look after my car well :( thanks for concern though! cheers hame

Thinking of fitting one myself, whats your verdict, what rpm does ur turbo spool up at

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  • 2 months later...

anyone know if there is a DIY for putting a standard RB25DET turbo back in and where the oil and water lines go etc.. coz i had my turbo removed (big mistake) now i am interested in putting it all back togethor again.. the only problem is i dont know where the metal bendable water and oil lines go..

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Thinking of fitting one myself, whats your verdict, what rpm does ur turbo spool up at

there a great turbo bang 4 buck.

my kkr480 is one of the first turbos they made from otmoto so its old school

i get around 20psi by 4800rpm

makes about 350rwhp

runs 115mph

even competes with some gt30 series garrett turbos going by other ppls specs and times

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  • 3 weeks later...

mate still u got the dump pipe for sale. is it 3 inch...?

Hey guys i decided after some research to give the KKR480 Turbo a go, so i have prepared a tutorial on how to remove the stock turbo off a series II rb25 and how to bolt on the KKR480. Progressive pictures have been used through out however forgive me if there is skips here and there :P .

SO here are some of the specs of the KKR480 turbo from the otomoto website:

This turbo offers great performance for the price and is very popular on RB25DET engines. The turbine is bigger than on a 430 and uses a 0.69 A/R exhaust housing for greater flow. It is a good choice for 2.5 litre to 4.0-litre engines. It is also good for twin-turbo applications on 5.0-7.0 litre engines.Specifications

Compressor side

Inlet pipe 70mm, outlet pipe 50mm 48 trim compressor; inducer 53mm, exducer 76.5mm

Exhaust side

0.69 A/R turbine housing, Turbine wheel outlet 56mm, outer diameter 73mm

Results

As a single turbo on a 2.5-litre Nissan RB25DET engine we have seen 265kW at the wheels with 18psi boost.

The following parts are also available:

- Race type actuator (1.0-1.25bar) $35

- Manifold flange plate (for use as a spacer or to fabricate a new manifold) $20

- RB20/25 dump pipe $149

I have the otomoto dump pipe and the street type actulator to go with my kk480 turbo.

!!!Caution/Achtung/Attenzione!!!

Follow this guide at your own risk. You have been warned. We are not responsible for any actions you take. The information contained here is a guide and should be acted upon with consultation from your local tuner. If you are unsure or are not confident don't do it.

So to begin with the following tools are needed/recommended:

- decent socket set

- spanners

- WD40

- Screw drivers

- Jack/pin stands

- Pliers

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STEP ONE

Remove Strut Brace (if you have one) Mine is a Nizmo front strut brace which took 17mm spanner.

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STEP TWO

Remove oil catch-can; Again this only implies to you if you have one installed. To do this i used a 10mm socket and a phillips head screw driver.

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STEP THREE

Disconnect AFM plug and remove airbox/pod filter. I have an Apexi D1 Pod filter which i removed.

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STEP FOUR

Remove the carchol caniser hoses from the canister: to do this i used pliers to push back the metal clips, then i could slide the hoses off.

STEP FIVE

Loosen the clamps on the silicone joiner connect the crossober pipe (J-pipe) and disconnect vacumm line from the BOV.

If you have a FMIC loosen the other clamps on the silicone joiners (i used an 8mm socket and spanner for this)

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STEP SIX

Remove the FMIC Piping from the car (make sure you block the piping still on the car with a clean rag)

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STEP SEVEN

Remove the pipe connecting the outlet of the turbo to the cooler piping.

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STEP EIGHT

Jack up the car safely using chocks on the rear wheels, make sure hand brake is on and it is in gear. Place pin stand under and lower jack onto pinstand.

STEP NINE

Remove the 3x nuts connecting the dump pipe to the front pipe (from memory i think these were 14mm and i used a socket set to do so, however they can be tough so a breaker bar or air compressor with rattlegun may be handy).

Once removed shake to losen the front pipe off the dump.

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Ok, so now we have all the pipes disconnected front and rear of the turbo.

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STEP TEN

Place under the car drip trays and old towels as it is about to get messy.

Undo the banjo bolt for the oil feed line onto of the turbo again i think this is 14mm and i used a socket with extension. (before doing this i dumped the oil out of the sump as i am going to change it anyhow)

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STEP ELEVEN

Remove the water lines to the turbo (feed and return) This was a big sucker 24mm socket!!

STEP TWELVE

Go back under the car! locate the oil drain line which should be held in place by 2x small clamps with 8mm nuts. Undo the clamp closest to the turbo itself. i did this with an 8mm socket.

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STEP THIRTEEN

Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold flange. To do this you will have to bend back the circlips with a set of pliers. Once this is done you will use either a 17mm socket of 17mm spanner. There is 4x bolts on the flange.

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STEP FOURTEEN

Once the bolts are removed carfully push the turbo down off the exhaust manifold and pull it out from the top of the engine bay!

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AND YOUR DONE!! Thats how you remove the stock turbo off a rb25det this also aplies to series I rb25det aswell as series I and II rb20dets.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
was there any modifications needed for the oil inlet and drain lines?

No, not at all, standard oil line was fine and drain line fitted straight up!! cheers hame

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i only had it tuned to 10psi so full boost around 4000rpm and holds out till redline!! - probably wouldnt recommend the turbo however get get better for lil more money!!

although higher boost can give better results read up the thread! h

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  • 3 months later...

may as well ask here

how did you go about getting the water lines off the turbo?

they seem like they are on there pretty tight!

and how tight should the turbo-manifold studs be? mine were pretty much finger tight lol

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  • 6 months later...

well they should be a lot tighter than finger tight, geez! Getting the water lines off the turbo is not an issue with the right tools and enough extension!

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