Taping The New Tensioner Question

[unique1]

hey just a quick question regarding tapping the new tensioner position above the water pump. Do i need to tap a second little hole for the spring behind the tensioner to stop on or dont bother with it and take the spring off?

cheers

[Adriano]

I wouldn't bother, just leava the spring out.

[ahh 33 s2]

what size is the hole and it doesnt matter if you go into the water gallery does it just a bit of lock tight and all is sweet yeah

[unique1]

what size is the hole and it doesnt matter if you go into the water gallery does it just a bit of lock tight and all is sweet yeah

the tensioner is m10x1.5 and yes u go into the water gallery, worked out perfect from the pdf document measurements, possibly a touch tight but i can get the belt on so thats good.

i bought a s1 block and managed to not notice it had the uneven cast face for the bottom idler so it didnt sit right, we used some liqued metal and made a flat face, worked great and was easy to do.

just gotta send the block off for decking and tap the oil drain hole (we havent got a tap and drill bit that big so ill leave it to the machine shop).

Then i can throw the parts back in and the head is all complete, just need some bigger shims and its almost ready to go.

Need to decide on what turbo to go for now, i got a limit of 430rwhp or so and dont wanna run more than 18-19psi boost if possible. Its either gt3040r, gt3076r or gt3540r, decisions decisions

[shanef]

go the 3076 man, will be perfect to what you want i.e skids from 2500rpm

[ahh 33 s2]

i have the same problem with the bottom tensioner. the hole for it is allready there however no surfast to sit on, after reading the liquied metal idea i went and purchased some selleys stuff.

however it says will only handle 120C of heat. would the constant spinning of the tensioner create a friction heat of excess of that is what i am wondering, considering if it did fail and the tensioner let the belt slip off it would cause some rather major damage.

or would getting a cast iron welder to fill it up then smooth over be a better option.

or just buy the right block in the first place, hits self over back off head

[unique1]

i have the same problem with the bottom tensioner. the hole for it is allready there however no surfast to sit on, after reading the liquied metal idea i went and purchased some selleys stuff.

however it says will only handle 120C of heat. would the constant spinning of the tensioner create a friction heat of excess of that is what i am wondering, considering if it did fail and the tensioner let the belt slip off it would cause some rather major damage.

or would getting a cast iron welder to fill it up then smooth over be a better option.

or just buy the right block in the first place, hits self over back off head

i bought some and its rated to over 300C of heat from memory, the tensioner doesnt spin on the block surface, the part bolting onto the block is sitting hard on the face of the block and doesnt move.

heres a pic of the tensioner spot setup with the liquid metal....

to hold the liquid in when its drying i used a bit of bluetack and made a little barrier to stop it running all over the place, put the tensioner stud in WITH oil on the threads and then just fill it up till its abit above flush and then let it go off for 20 min or so, wind the bolt out a fraction as to make sure its not stuck in and then file the surface flat using the waterpump surface etc as a guide to get it spot on. The bolt can then be takin out and the threads remain so u can screw it in and out without any problems.

[ahh 33 s2]

what was the brand name of this product and what store was it in. i could only see one type of metal substance at bunnings prolly not the best store for it but it was more of a putty. also i noticed that the hole for the tensioner bolt in that position sits back into the block abit making the bolt shorter then the top tensioner and cam gears?

Edited August 22, 2008 by ahh 33 s2

[unique1]

just an update on the idler mounting on a s1 block. I just tried to torque the idler pulley onto the liqued metal flat spot and it distorted the flat spot so looks like ill have to sort something else out, mayybe i should of made the flat spot a fair bit bigger, ill update when i find a solution. Pity i spent money on the block decking it and acid bath etc, now its all assembled and i find this damn problem

Edited August 28, 2008 by unique1

[Adriano]

You could try brazing the area, and then grinding it back.

[unique1]

thanks mate for the idea, i got something else lined up first i shall try, ill post info once i see if it works or not. I dont really wanna weld the block as its been decked now and internals are all installed, do u think anything would be effected if i heated up the idler area to braze it up?

[James_03]

yeah I had this prob a little while back on one of my first builds, ended up making a custom washer about 1cm thick that fits over the stud and is ground away on an angle underneath to suit the block. Hardest part is getting the correct angle on the washer underneath so that when the tensioner torques down, it doesn't come off centre, had it done in a day of mucking around with the grinder tho.

[unique1]

Well i have sorted the problem most likely, ended up welding up the area and grinding it flat, looks good and should work ok, i have bolted idler on and its fine, havent fitted the belt yet or run it so not gonna say its worked until its actually running

[ahh 33 s2]

what did the welding set you back

[unique1]

what did the welding set you back

i did it at home so it was free, took a while trying to not get too much heat into the block and distorting the water pump area of the block, took a good hour or so as its alot of metal area to build up. We did a test run on a spare old rb26 block i got here to make sure it would stick and work ok

As i said i wont say its 100% right until i see the motor run for a while, but looks like the best option available if u happen to get a s1 block.