Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 373
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

And to make me stab you ;)

2530s shall do me just fine but at this stage it's still going to be my 2860-7s. SOMEONE buy my turbos!!!!!!!!!!! Haha no matter what I put in I'll always want to go bigger better faster. I can't help myself.

I saw some losers at Gunners with a 33 GTST with a GTR badge on it. Parked mine and got out and they watched me pull up and were looking at me... As I walk past I just simply said "At least mine's real". Hehe they didn't say a word.

Just a little update.... Car is going to be sprayed on Thursday at this stage. Wheels are fixed and getting delivered early next week so hopefully they're looking good.

Bottom end of my engine is about to be assembled. Was a bit of a wait on a few extra studs and things that we decided to change at the last minute. Hopefully will have some piccies in the next few days. The porting of the head is almost finished and Greg is going to do some flow testing.

Happy days, it's all starting to come together!! 4 weeks without my baby so far, wow it's been a long 4 weeks!! :P

Id stick with the genuine R32 one, maybe get some new red on it and some gloss

Also coilpack cover I leave on, but everything else that matters is ceramic coated (turbos, manifolds, dumps, fronts) so the only heat will be coming from the actual motor in mine. Its not hard to pull it off though or vice versa, definatly get it sprayed at the same time with the other covers though :blink:

R32 badge is dead to me. It won't even be the same colour as the car anymore so 34 badge is going on. Also matches the front grille badge. Coordination is a good thing!

As for covers I'm still undecided. They're all getting painted up anyways so will see what Ed wants to do when he puts it all back together.

So if nothing goes wrong I'll have it back in 2 weeks!!

I'm just waiting on a call back to confirm where the engine is at.

Paint is finished, car is getting put back together as we speak. Colour looks damn awesome!

Will be back at Autotech on Monday ready to get it's engine put back in ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...