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Dynoed my Car, stock ECU intercooler 183rwks


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Hey guys. Well i installed my boost gauge and my Festo Pneumatics bleed Valve and headed off to Morpowa to get it tuned. Anyway the result was a very impressive 183rwkws at 11psi. The bleed valve was quite good, however there is a spike at around 3500rpm where it goes to 13psi.

Anyway im very happy, it feels alot more responsive, But i think my clutch is now slipping :P Im not too sure.

Now i need to heat wrap my front pipe and make my CAI partition, then A FMIC hehe.

Mods are trust 3inch front pipe, Trust cat back 3.5 inch, HKS airfilter, HKS BOV, THats really it.

Dyno printout to come later.

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i can answer that one cobo .. he was running the ssq bov and did have one of them hks idle stableizers but now i'm not so sure what he has since he fixed his afm problems ... and yeah i dont' think u've ever told me what u did to fix that problem u had dean?

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joel ... i can also say that i've heard that tilbrooks reads much higher than alot of other dynos ... i've heard this from numerous amounts of people ... but its just a rumor so can't be 100 percent sure ... but definitely does not mean that tilbrooks dont' know what they're doing :(

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It is only marginal I think well it used to be unless things have changed since almost a year ago.

Freebaggin made some where around 200rwkw on RPM's DD Dyno and he also made the same/very similiar on Tilbrooks Dyno.

I've had mine on RPM's and made 115rwkw when it was dead stock on a cold day, I also had mine on D&T Performance Exhausts DD Dyno on a 34degree day and it made 113rwkw.

Maybe its changed since then however. :(

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Hiep: Sorry matey, Ok the problem was with the AFM and the loom connection plug, and perhaps the ECU? Anyway i replaced the ECU, Straped taped the connection to it to ensure it was getting correct conductivity, and then took apart the AFM, resoldered something that looked like it was not connected, and it all worked.

Now back to the thread. I think my clutch is slippin on boost in lower gears 2nd 3rd, but not under load in 4th gear. Isnt there more pressure on the clutch in a higher gear?

So im confused, I think i need someone to come out and drive it. BOOSTD, are u free this week at all?

Now i cant wait to get a FMIC and PowerFC, hahah with my imaginary money. Im so broke :D

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The BoostD special is not a bad turbo.. :D

I some times think its the clutch slipping in third however its the diff occasionally open wheeling slightly. Not all the time.

It does it more so in first if anything as boost snaps hard. Some times axle tramps and goes sideways othertimes just openwheels slightly, goes no where and hits 7k.

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Dean if you buy a cheap clutch, you get a cheap clutch. I would strongly recommend you dont make the mistake I did, and buy your self a twin plate. Can be had for $1200 second hand in good cond ($3500new) and they just wont let you down.

At the end of the day, you pay $550 for a single plate, then anoter couple of hundred for a pressure plate, then another $200+ plus to fit, then you pay another $1200 when the single shits itself, then another $200 to fit it a second time.

I know its a bit dearer, but it is so much better, and will take all the punishment you can hand out. If I had gone the twin straight up I would have saved myself $900 - thats almost a power fc, or a GTR cooler with change:)

If you are interested, pm me and I will see if I can get you a good deal on one second hand.

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