Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah it's fine. the hole left by the nail will be a weak spot where rocks, etc can get into the tyre a bit easier and cause future punctures though. if you are worried about this then spimple put a patch on the inside of the tyre where the hole is.

so went to the apollo show on the weekend. they have really upped the quality this year while keeping prices pretty much the same.

nah, it wasn't interbike or anything like that where you get to see prototypes, etc. just the new stock. were a few cool things though. 30 speed mtb (new shimano dyna-sys or whatever it's called), full carbon road bike with carbon wheels. dual suspension cross country mtb with half carbon/half alloy frame. tandem road bike.

cherie is getting one of these (womens specific road bike)

37832_133946183307517_133196210049181_137102_1273551_n.jpg

then i'm going to order 2 of the mens version of this. 1 for myself and 1 to strip all the parts off to put on cherie's bike and all the parts off cherie's bike onto this so she can have a bike running 105 10 speed but with the pink and white frame, LOL

37832_133946189974183_133196210049181_137104_461420_n.jpg

the hasa bike I bought is good

shifts gears up and down very smoothly

brakes are good, didnt take too long to setup

tendon over the knees is all bruised up tho. collapsed down a stair after 1st ride !! no knee strength whatsoever

just got to take it slow and easy and gradually up the km distance traveled each week

good bike for the price, nice and light, quality frame, top notch parts

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ME:L:OU:AU:1123

post-18854-1280385406_thumb.jpg

shimano pd-m520 clipless pedals & shimano mo86 shoes = win! love the action, feels natural, easy to twist foot out too!

just had the cockhead from the other bike shop in telling me i should get a roady with ultegra instead of 105 because it's better. what a cockhead. yes it's better but for the amount of riding i will be doing it certainly isn't worth the extra $1500 it will cost me to get it, and there is pretty much zero noticable difference between the 2. 105 is pretty much ultegra from a year or 2 ago anyway, so it doesn't really matter.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just stumbled on this thread... good sh1t!

I've just purchased a new road bike off a mate of a mate who works at the wholesaler... got this for a little bit over 2k$..

He changed the black handle bar tape to red, looks nuts.

http://www.masibikes.com/carbon/3vc-ultegra/

Ive only riden it once as the gears seem to be slipping every like 5th pedal (bike hadnt been set up and adjusted before sold to me and had been sitting at the wholesaler shop for approx 6months). Any ideas if i can just adjust something to fix it or i may just take it to the local bike shop for them to adjust it.

if it was in fact the ultegra version you got for 2k then that's a bloody good price. the wholesale on it was about $3500. the 105 version was down around 2k though.

as for your gears, well it is more than likely just going to be a slight cable adjustment issue. without knowing more about exactly what it's doing it's a bit hard to give you instructions on how to fix it, so if you aren't overly knowledgable on adjusting gears then i'd take it to a bike shop to get it fixed. it will probably only take a few seconds to fix but you'll probably get charged $15 or $20 for it, LOL.

It is actually the Ultegra version, it was one of the demo bikes they had sitting at the wholesaler that they didnt send out to a shop for people to do the test rides etc. It hadnt been ridden at all, everything was brand spanking. He said that they dont even sell them at wholesale price for that much. My theory is ride the pants off it for a few years and/or whenever its time to get rid of it i should get my money back.

I youtubed adjusting the gears doesnt look to difficult... so i might give it a crack, if not ill just take it to the bike shop and they can do what they need to do for $20 haha. Minor service is $55... but no way does it need a service yet.

yeah adjusting the gears isn't hard if you know what it is doing wrong. just take not of exactly what you do so that if it makes it worse then you can undo it and try going the other way. if it's in 5th gear or so then it's going to be cable tension. you won't need to touch the limit screws just either tighten the cable or loosen it a bit via the cable adjuster. i'm guessing that probably half a turn will do it.

and yeah, you should get about 3 years before it's value starts to drop below what it cost you. the problem is that masi isn't the most popular brand (that's not saying it isn't good, just a lot of people don't think it is or don't know of the brand so will prefer to buy a more commonly known brand).

oh and if your mate ever works in the call centre at pac brands then there is a chance i have spoken to him on the phone

no point getting a service, there's nothing to service. if anything just pay to get the gears adjusted. don't waste the money on a service. the hubs will already have grease in them, and the basic service at $55 will probably only be a gear and brake adjustment and minor truing of wheels. very few bike shops these days will even touch wheel bearings for that sort of money. we based out service pricing off some shops in brissy (but went a bit cheaper) and we don't even pick up the grease until you get to $135. at $50 we adjust the cones in the wheels, headset and crank if needed, but we don't actually grease up the bearings.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...