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wow there is alot more info for me.. thanks guys

maybe soon i should get it checked... after my service... and just the basic plugs will be fine then??

saves me some money lol... that money can go towards the tune and other things..

WYTSKY - yeah i dont really know what im running exactly

so heres what im going to do:

1) get the service

2) take the car to a tuner so they can check out EXACTLY what im running

3) ask them for advice about it

4) perhaps get it tuned (because i really think it needs it)

5) see how it goes with the missfiring

6) if its still screwing me over then ill look at fuel pump & coil pack

Maybe if i take some more pics of the engine bay and things (ie my turbo) people might be able to tell me what it is?

it could be worth a shot? lol

Edited by palmer
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yea man more pics. also in the passenger footwell on the left hand side, in the corner, there is a plastic cover called a kickpanel.

take that panel off and grab a pic of the ECU.

also, get us some pics of the top of the injectors IF POSSIBLE. someone on here may be able to tell from their colour

its just starting to sound suss that u "think" u have all these things......and well.....being the devils advocate i dont believe you.

picsorban lol

not being mean...just trying to figure this out

Edited by r33cruiser

yeah na man thats fine... i bought the car how it is and id LOVE to find out if the guy gave me the right info on the car bout the injectors etc

ill get some pics for ya's

Thanks :(

Edited by palmer

hey guys,

I just took these pictures.. one is of one of my injectors, my turbo, my ecu and my stinger EMS computer

The turbo has a badge on it (top left hand of the turbo.. next to that bolt that has a G on it lol) that has "XTR GCG Turbo's Australia" What do you guys think?

Pics:

img00026xu9.jpg

img00033em0.jpg

img00035ww9.jpg

img00036qf1.jpg

img00039vm1.jpg

haha im more confused now after pics than i was before . if the turbo has the gcg badge id be assuming its a r33 hi-flowed standard turbo , you need to take pics of the side of the injectors to see the colour of them and i always thought ems computers were 'stand alone'? (i.e not needing the factory ecu in the vehicle like you have pictured) can you take pictures of how the ems is wired?

so ill have to take an injector out to show ya's? how exactly do i take it out?

and yeah i believe it is a stand alone... dont know y the stock ECU is there.. maybe too lazy to take it out? lol i dunno

and yeh i thought it was a stock 33 turbo made hi flow...

ill try get some pics of how its connected and the side of the injector

how much do tuners go for on a rough average?

just want to get an idea

I really want to work on my car... get it up around 300rwkw sounds pretty good to me... or more... doesnt bother me haha

How do i take the injectors out btw?

dont need to take the injectors out to see... there's a good tutorial with pic and all somewhere round here... takes a bit of time tho...

i also thought the stinger was standalone, but your stock ecu still has the loom attached so it's definately just a piggyback you have there :rofl:

change the plugs yourself... fairly simple... just need sparkplug revover thingamajig, new plugs and a gapping tool as well as a small socket wrench set and some screwdrivers :bunny: gap to 0.8 (easy search on that or even ask @ autobarn/repco/bursons) and see how the missing goes

then get it to a tuner... but make sure you ask about the stinger when you call :banana:

ask the tuner to tell you which fuel pump, injectors and MAF you have. as any of these can cause a restriction @ around that power level.

i have had good experiance with splitfire super DI's as has most everyone round here :banana: plenty of our site sponsors keep them in stock too

quote name='joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo' @ 23 Aug 2008, 11:39 PM) 230rwkw is dancing around the limits of stock injectors and to use an fpr to push your car further is dangerous to your engine.

Why?

err... srsly? because running injectors @ or near 100% duty leaves no margin for error and you'll end up with a fail @ high rpm leaving NO fuel going in... 85% odd is the usual max people tend to go with... $700 injectors vs 5-10k rebuild... i know what i would do / did.

Why?

err... srsly? because running injectors @ or near 100% duty leaves no margin for error and you'll end up with a fail @ high rpm leaving NO fuel going in... 85% odd is the usual max people tend to go with... $700 injectors vs 5-10k rebuild... i know what i would do / did.

Do you understand what adjustable FPRs are used to achieve? What higher fuel pressure means for injector flow?

Edited by govich
Do you understand what adjustable FPRs are used to achieve? What higher fuel pressure means for injector flow?

yes... and using them to up the base pressure to max out 15year old stock injectors is NOT a great idea.

Ok so ill try and find a tuner thats good around my area of sydney... then he will be able to tell em what is what and how everything is running

all after a service of course...

then once i find out what he says i can determine what i need to do to fix the mis firing.. and what he recommends with upgrades to reach my goal/s

ill also definately ask him about the EMS Stinger

yes... and using them to up the base pressure to max out 15year old stock injectors is NOT a great idea.

The point of running a higher base pressure is to create a bigger pressure difference between the fuel lines and intake stream, and it can be adjusted so that the injectors don't have to be used at 100% duty cycle to inject the desired amount of fuel. That is, you use the FPR so you don't have to 'max out' your 15 year old stock injectors.

Edited by govich
The point of running a higher base pressure is to create a bigger pressure difference between the fuel lines and intake stream, and it can be adjusted so that the injectors don't have to be used at 100% duty cycle to inject the desired amount of fuel. That is, you use the FPR so you don't have to 'max out' your 15 year old stock injectors.

So according to you, we can put the base pressure at 80psi instead of 43psi, so we only have to run the factory injectors at 50% instead of 95%?

I wonder how long they'd last with even a 20% pressure increase....

Injectors can leak causing engine failures..........

So according to you, we can put the base pressure at 80psi instead of 43psi, so we only have to run the factory injectors at 50% instead of 95%?

I wonder how long they'd last with even a 20% pressure increase....

Injectors can leak causing engine failures..........

No but if they're in good condition you will be able to bump it slightly to flow enough for 220-230 wheel kW as i said before.

not that i have anything against adjustable fpr (great when used in the right place) but pushing your injectors past standard duty cycle is the last thing you want to do,not the safest of ways to bag an extra cuple of kw,spend the dollars save your engine,as previously stated its completely useless at such a low state of tune,by that i mean its more a risk then its worth...

Everyone seems to bump their stock turbos up from 7psi to 12+psi without a second thought as to how their 15 year old stock injectors are going to cope with the extra 5+psi of pressure. Yet when the evil acronym FPR and raising rail pressure by another 5psi is mentioned, watch out! It's unanimous! The injectors are going to leak! Engine failure! Blown internals! Perhaps if it was based on experience or fact, anything other than rubbish like "I wonder how long they'd last with even a 20% pressure increase...." it might actually be useful advice.

Mafia, you really got me there. I was obviously, throughout all of my posts, suggesting running the stock fuel system at 80psi. What a joke. Feel free to exaggerate and ridicule everything i've said here too.

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