Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just my car from the compliance show and when they said it was in very good condition I believed just that, fact is i'm overseas at the moment so didn't have the chance to see the car to justify the condition. Anyway girlfriend just informed there are numerous scratches and dents as tho a car has scraped the whole driver side plus scratches all over the bonnet, boot, rear numberplate and god knows where else. From the detailed pictures I got from Japan it had to have been done in transit or at the compliance centre. Just need to know how to go about this, am obviously extremely pissed off at the moment and need advice. Its looking like a complete respray for a car that was in perfect condition before it left Japan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/
Share on other sites

Did you have shipping insurance?

If yes go through them. I had pics of the car sent to the insurers from the dock in Japan, and then once it got here just to cover my self. If you don't have pics and it's been in Aus for a few weeks it may be tough, but try it anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4086688
Share on other sites

Word of advice for anyone thinking of importing, be there for every part of the transportation process from the docks thru to compliancing to just before it leaves the compliancers. Due to me being overseas at the moment it will quite possibly affect the outcome with insurance for the damage done, not being able to follow it up quick enough.

Does suck big time not being able to do much but will definately be trying to sort it all out when i get back, will keep you updated on how it all goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4105979
Share on other sites

Word of advice for anyone thinking of importing, be there for every part of the transportation process from the docks thru to compliancing to just before it leaves the compliancers. Due to me being overseas at the moment it will quite possibly affect the outcome with insurance for the damage done, not being able to follow it up quick enough.

Does suck big time not being able to do much but will definately be trying to sort it all out when i get back, will keep you updated on how it all goes.

Mate that is the risk factor you have to consider when you import cars , ive imported many cars let me tell you they dont always look like it the photos in saying that i imported some very clean ones. Did you import it yourself or an a Import agent in Australia ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4114217
Share on other sites

Yeh I did go thru an import agent, isn't the first time i've imported either so I knew the risks that came with importing. Biggest hassle is the photos taken before it left Japan were fine,with the marks I knew displayed on the pictures, problem being the scratches have suddenly appeared so i'm guessing it happened during transit somewhere, it only being aesthetic is a bonus as thats the only problem. Apart from a few minor things extremely happy with what I got.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4114364
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

Any update on your situation?? Just hope everything has worked out fine. I know the feeling when something like that goes wrong.

Thinking of importing a V35 but starting to think about buying one locally.

I was going to import. I chickened out and bought one locally. 99.9% go well from what I can see but i have the luck of the Irish or lack thereof.

Works a treat when it goes well but I didn't have the money to gamble on a slight chance it would go pear shaped.

I too hope that the situation here pans out for the good. Let us know mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4154201
Share on other sites

Been stuffed around heaps trying to find out who knew anything about the scratches, at the moment it seems hopeless but do have a few contacts I can get in touch with at the gold coast who can do a repair for me. Found a few scratches on the wheels and just wondering if anyone knows of any good places to get them repaired (Brisbane/Gold coast area).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4156053
Share on other sites

Mark,

To fix up your wheels, speak with Chris at Wheels Revolution, Slacks Creek.

Due to the color of the coupe wheels, its gonna set you back close to $200 per wheel to get the scratches removed and the whole wheel repainted to factory color.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233018-trashed/#findComment-4156224
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...