Jump to content
SAU Community

New R33 Gtst

d-brodgtst

By d-brodgtst,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

d-brodgtst Apprentice

d-brodgtst

Posted
Posted

so i just bought 33gtst,

mods are as follows

3" turbo back,600x400x100 front mount,pod filter,splitfire coils,walbro 255l/hr pump,hks evc2 boost control,

im looking at buying a haltech e11v2,some 550cc injectors,hiflowing the turbo and looking for about 225-250rwkw...im worried bout lag and any other probs that might show up tho so if any one can give me some tech pointers it wuld be good,please no redirects to tutorials or stickies,im a mechanic im just looking for a couple of extra opinions,and am i gonna need more then that for the desired power??

any help much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233162-new-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted

It's all on here, for such a common upgrade path - just search! I'd try to get a Power FC if you can, less fuss for closer to stock 'niceness' eg coldstart etc. You could probably figure out your options from all the 'what do upgrade next' threads on the first 3 plages of this section alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233162-new-r33-gtst/#findComment-4087967
Share on other sites
zeko33 Collaborator

zeko33

Posted
Posted

if u get the stock turbo highflowed it shouldnt get too much turbo lag at all. Maybe if was abit bigger then would start to lag. But the turbo size is fine for the engine so shudnt be too much lag. The smaller the less lag

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233162-new-r33-gtst/#findComment-4088988
Share on other sites
d-brodgtst Apprentice

d-brodgtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
id start looking at coilovers or heavy duty clutch. but if its purely power your after, id be going power fc as well

my main problem with the power fc is the lack of upgrades in the last god knows how long and the little "technical oversight" in the lack of knock correction,is it just the price that turns people off haltech or is there more to it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233162-new-r33-gtst/#findComment-4090284
Share on other sites
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Everything you have listed is fine for your goal. Like said above, if the clutch is stock then thats the only thing that will need to be upgraded.

With 220-250kw, you wont need to worry about lag at all, very similar response to factory with a highflow or T28 series turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233162-new-r33-gtst/#findComment-4090979
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...