Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ey man if u got $10k-$20k on spending a skyline you might aswell get the best you can buy.

a r32 skyline is a car that you have to be prepared to look after as they are getting old. i've had a few things go wrong with my 32. suspension is 90% always shot unless it was hardly driven or has been replaced. power steering leaks are pretty notorious with 32's and the 4ws (hicas) system makes it worse when its failed. Not trying to discourage you from buying one and i love my r32 but the reality is that they are getting old.

for the price you want to pay go the series II r33 or a nice r34 gtt. if ur a new p plater don't get any of them at all lol as you won't be allowed to drive the turbo models.

but another thing to look at is the fact that a r32 makes 160kw, r33 makes 187kw? and a r34 gtt has 206kw. be sure to be ready when you put the power down that you are confident enough to handle it because i've heard of so many people stuffing around in 33's-34's and slamming into a pole.

gr8 advise mate. i had no idea abt r32, r33 n other models. till nw i was just seeing a skyline based on its looks bt nw i ll also c if i can get a r33 or above in the range i want 2 spend. n i m holding a full license for more than a year nw so it wont b a problem 4 me. i m probably looking for a car that is atleast made in 1998 or above. do u reckon i can get a r33 or r34 tat is 1998 or above model in <$20k????

Edited by Stone Cold

I would go with a 33 becuase its cheaper than a 34 and you will use the money saved on upgrades and servicing, which you will need as the cost of brakes, suspension and other bits and pieces will add up. Plus in my opinion the 33 looks better with the rounded look as appossed to the 34 wiTh the sharp edges ( but then im bias as i own a 33 )

My 2 cents

MLR

i test drove a 33 from SEI and when i booted it a whole heap of wires fell out from under the dash, on top of that i only saw the boost gauge get up to about 3psi while at WOT and the guy salesman who was with me in the car said "dont worry about that its normal"

i told the cnt id think about it and ran as fast as i could

Edited by gtr-wpn

LoL the wires fell out!...yeh SEI are just bad..bad service...cars arent too bad but seem dodgey as...

if your not looking to modify get the r34 i reckon. although a little heavier by a small margin, engine kills it, very colid and much newer feel and can be a good cruiser.

http://www.autoline.com.au/photo.wsvc?pid=...amp;size=thumb1

this one has the nismo kit but take off the spoiler, give it decent lowerage, good offset wheels = sexy ass car

if you want to modify abit get a r33 series II (will have on the front bumper a set of fogs and indicators which are both circle). try and get the full stock kit with the lower front lip extension. looks hot as but might be hard to find.

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...chinspoiler.jpg

this with good lowerage and rims looks tuff.

let us know how you go man!

Edited by jakez88
www.southernspecialvehicles.com.au good dealer.

Dont bother with RACV, they charge $200+ to tell you a headlight globe isnt working.

Better off taking the car to a import mechanic to get a pre-inspection test.

Will cost between $100 - $150 for an inspection. Remember to ask for compression and leakdown test (to check if engine is healthy)

www.recustoms.com.au is good place for pre-inspection

agreed.... I take my r33 to revzone at ringwood - they are really good when it comes to service, mods, fixing up other workshop's mistakes etc - and they work on track cars, so they know a thing or 2 about imports. My car now runs without any problems at all - its crazy. See if they can do an inspection - talk to justin.

SSV (as pat mentioned) is a good dealer - pricey, but def good cars. Id go check them out if I were you.

And check that link that ash posted.

Also remember, if you are getting a good car, make sure it stays that way by getting the car properly serviced.

Search the forum. There is enough info about the garbage they import. Low quality cars at rip off prices.

when i was lookin around for mine i went there with my old man and he thought the guy talked outta his ass n was abit dodgy

Whats wrong with sei, looked at a few there when i was lookin around....

his first car was from sei i think - the salesman didnt know what came with it and kris ended up getting a monster of a car for a decent price.

same way, people have gotten cars from there that were pretty much just a sheet of metal for rather ridiculous amounts of cash......

Haha yea my first r33 came from SEI, but it was a trade in from someone else, they didn't import it. They didn't know what mods the car had, so i ended up paying for a pretty standard car but got a 250rwkw car :D

Appreciate all the valuable advices i m getting mates. cheers for tat n keep em coming. till nw this is my conclusion. go for a r33 (first priority, n of course i ll keep it good by regualar service). get it inspected at recustoms or revzone b4 buyin. go 4 the dealers SSV, Japcars or Kamikaze. i hope this is what all of u wanted 2 say. lets c hw i go on this weekend for my car hunt...........

Hey mate,

we got two r33's at the moment. Come in and check them out, no pressure at all. We're in Richmond, VIC, and always try to give our best prices to SAU members (they're listed at 13,9 and 12,9). We've sold a bunch to SAU people so check other threads about us.

good luck with your quest regardless.

cheers,

David @ Carizma

Appreciate all the valuable advices i m getting mates. cheers for tat n keep em coming. till nw this is my conclusion. go for a r33 (first priority, n of course i ll keep it good by regualar service). get it inspected at recustoms or revzone b4 buyin. go 4 the dealers SSV, Japcars or Kamikaze. i hope this is what all of u wanted 2 say. lets c hw i go on this weekend for my car hunt...........
Hey mate,

we got two r33's at the moment. Come in and check them out, no pressure at all. We're in Richmond, VIC, and always try to give our best prices to SAU members (they're listed at 13,9 and 12,9). We've sold a bunch to SAU people so check other threads about us.

good luck with your quest regardless.

cheers,

David @ Carizma

Hi David,

I will surely come there on this saturday to have a look at the cars. No harm in seeing them. Can you please send me some pics n info about the cars though?

Thanks :banana:

his first car was from sei i think - the salesman didnt know what came with it and kris ended up getting a monster of a car for a decent price.

same way, people have gotten cars from there that were pretty much just a sheet of metal for rather ridiculous amounts of cash......

Ah ok lol glad i didnt end up gettin one i was lookin at from there then

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...