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I have not done it but i have seen a set up where (and this was for box and diff) they used the drain plug to go to the cooler then the filler plug as the returne. There was two coolers next to the fuel tank with electric pumps, looked good.

I know the Aussie delivered BNR's had that set up on the transfer case. Im pretty sure thats how they are with the factory cooler setups on the diff's as well.

I think the transfer case drain bolt faces forward so there is plenty of clearance. The gearbox drain bolt points down. Any fitting on this part will takes another ~20mm and can easily get caught into things. I rather not do things than do it in a bad way and run the risk of damaging the box. The gearbox case is a very well engineered part that reinforces and holds all of the gearbox internal. I don't want to tap at the wrong place either.

The drain point for the diff points down was well so I did not use the drain. The diff back cover does not play any part in its structural rigidity. I tapped the diff cover for the cooler.

Edited by 9krpm

Just had another look underneath the car. The transfer case drain points the driver side and filler points backward. So yeah safe to install fittings.

The gearbox drain is not a good place to use for oil cooler outlet because it will protrude the fitting to the ground. It is also in front of the gearbox cross member and is not protected by anything else. It will easily be wiped off by speed hump.

Has anyone else got other suggestion? Gibson GTR had gearbox cooler. Has anyone got any pic of their setup?

thanks

why do you need a gearbox cooler? even on long races/rallies we've never had a problem with the gearbox.

transfer case yes when we turn up the front torque, but never the gearbox

I've attached a pic of the gibson race car xfer case, they have tapped into where the actuator goes into the xfer case. but I don't have any good pics of the setup

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Duncan, I've gone through 2 sets of PPG and a bit reluctant to get a 3rd set until I find the causes of the failure. I've been very gentle with them and all dog gears are fine. In my last set, the a couple of gears were worn and had pitting marks on them. I am not entirely sure of the cause and suspect that high oil temp could be one of the causes. The OS Giken gearbox seems to cope well though. I've not monitor the oil temperature and will do that when I have more track time again. I am just exploring the options of oil cooler since I have a few cooler cores and a 12 volt pump lying around.

What oil temp do you normally see in the gearbox on the track Duncan?

I've attached a pic of the gibson race car xfer case, they have tapped into where the actuator goes into the xfer case. but I don't have any good pics of the setup

Doesn't that T piece just measure or modify the ATTESSA actuator pressure?

It looks like they also had a a transfer case oil cooler from the picture. They drained it at the drain point on the driver side and returned it at the filler hole on the back of the xfer case.

From the picture you can also see an oil filter. I suspect that this is part of their gearbox oil cooler system. Do you have anyother picture?

yeah sorry no clearer pics of the setup....our spy only had limited time under there :P but yes there were coolers on xfer case, gearbox and rear diff. If you have to run a heap of balast why not add a couple of coolers, eh?

I've never put a temp sensor on the gearbox because I've never seen a sign I should.....oil is in good condition and it doesn't breath so I haven't worried. Not that we are running big power so maybe that makes a difference.

Duncan, I've gone through 2 sets of PPG and a bit reluctant to get a 3rd set until I find the causes of the failure. I've been very gentle with them and all dog gears are fine. In my last set, the a couple of gears were worn and had pitting marks on them. I am not entirely sure of the cause and suspect that high oil temp could be one of the causes. The OS Giken gearbox seems to cope well though. I've not monitor the oil temperature and will do that when I have more track time again. I am just exploring the options of oil cooler since I have a few cooler cores and a 12 volt pump lying around.

What oil temp do you normally see in the gearbox on the track Duncan?

Doesn't that T piece just measure or modify the ATTESSA actuator pressure?

It looks like they also had a a transfer case oil cooler from the picture. They drained it at the drain point on the driver side and returned it at the filler hole on the back of the xfer case.

From the picture you can also see an oil filter. I suspect that this is part of their gearbox oil cooler system. Do you have anyother picture?

what oil?

i have done a few but i remove the housings from the car and weld in an alloy square sump and fit the fitting in the side, does not protrude too far (about 7mm below std lowest point) as you go out to the side enough to get the correct size fitting.

i stole the idea (sump idea) from one of the hollinger sequential GTR boxes fitted to a D1gp car i saw many moons back.

ARC do a nice complete kit and i reckon it is impossible to beat value wise (part number AOCBNR32M-BL) it is around $1600 before gst and shipping and comes with EVERYTHING (cooler, lines, brackets, pump, filter and fittings) sorry for bad pics but the ARC parts book has shiny pages that my scanner does agree with.

post-34927-1219921625_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1219921706_thumb.jpg

Thanks Uras. That is a very good idea. Could you kindly share the picture of your setup?

I used the Castrol recommended oil. I will probably try the Redline with my next box. What oil do you recommend Uras?

Question....

regarding the hicas pump in the engine bay on a r32, can this be used to pump oil? or is it not good for running constant?

i think arc have them pdf files on their website regartind that cooler. or i may have seen it on yahoo japan with a link to the cooler pdf files..

Thanks Uras. That is a very good idea. Could you kindly share the picture of your setup?

I used the Castrol recommended oil. I will probably try the Redline with my next box. What oil do you recommend Uras?

Ahh yeah we were told that we would void warranty on our PPG gearsets if we did NOT use Redline shockproof, it may just have been because we were using them for drift.

i will chase up some pics of the sump setup i used..

I dont mean to have a go at anyone, but if you've blown 2 sets that last most a lifetime, maybe its technique?

I won't have a go at you either but what part of the gearbox does poor technique break?

  • 1 month later...
Ahh yeah we were told that we would void warranty on our PPG gearsets if we did NOT use Redline shockproof, it may just have been because we were using them for drift.

i will chase up some pics of the sump setup i used..

Trent any chance of those pics mate?

I had a look under the car again and there is very little room to connect anything in the GTR because of the front drive shaft. BTW what warranty is PPG offering on their gears? When I bought mine a few years ago, Castrol and Redline were the recommended oils.

Ahh yeah we were told that we would void warranty on our PPG gearsets if we did NOT use Redline shockproof, it may just have been because we were using them for drift.

i will chase up some pics of the sump setup i used..

i would like to see these gearsets as this is very uncommon , Was the same oil used in both gearsets ? (same container) when the gears wore through did the teeth become discoloured? as if the 2 teeth had broken through the oil ? dumb question but you did over fill the trans to compensate for the cooler ?

What part of the box let go ? input cluster ? 1st 2nd etc?

can you send me a picture ?

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