Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

craz0

so now with the pfc in everything is fine and all u had to do was plug in with no extra wiring or mods to to the unit or wiring to make it work with the auto?

the only issue u have is the power light flashing?

steve-sst

how much is a wolf plugin worth for a r33 auto gts-t?

and who can tune it in sydney?

and as craz0 said when you installed the wolf into the auto r33 did u notice the power button flashing/going through the diagnostics?

Originally posted by walkoau

craz0

so now with the pfc in everything is fine and all u had to do was plug in with no extra wiring or mods to the unit or wiring to make it work with the auto?

the only issue u have is the power light flashing?

The PFC worked and you can drive the Car, but the Auto speed button would flash 16 times (all fast) and when you run the Auto through diagnostic mode the third flash would be long (Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected) so the Auto needs the TPS signal to work properly, when I took it for a drive it would hold out through the gears (e.g. would change from first to second at about 3500rpm with your foot just on the accelerator where it would normally change under 2000rpm) after braking/cornering and then accelerating it seem to be in the right gear (like it wasn't fishing for a gear), It kicked back gears fine as well. When it did change from first to second it was harsh (like when you put your foot down from first to second and it gives you that kick but just not as fast and no wheel spin :P)

I can't seem to find a pin layout for the actual Auto ECU either.

Does anyone know what info Pins 5, 14 and 15 push from the main ECU? all three of these go straight to the Auto ECU.

I'm figuring they push the TPS and maybe Tacho signals so the Auto ECU can figure out when to change.

I've attached a pic of the three wires going into the Auto ECU.

Just seeing if anyone knows for sure.

  • 1 month later...

Ok i got the wolf plug-in and I pluged it in and the car didn't want to start and when it did it coughed and farted and blow dark black smoke and the lights on the ECU looked like Christmas lights going of,so I turned it of :confused: don't know what happened here.

The user manual I got with the ECU is for the normal Ver 4 but not the Plug-in version, I've contacted Wolf about this and I'm waiting on a reply.

Steve-SST do you know if there is different versions of the plug-ins at all? mine has (rev 5) on it, also the PC software I got for it is Ver 4.49 what version are you currently using?

So the MAP sensor has to be conected for it to work properly? so where is the best place to hook in the map sensor line? the fuel presure reg line?

Can you still leave the AFM hooked up or do you have to remove that as well?

My car is a 93 R33 RB25DET Auto everything is stock other then a Jamex filter in the original box and I run it on Optimax.

Steve Taylor sent me the first draft of the Installation Manual for the R32/R33 GTST Plug-In ECU, I haven't had the chance to read over it yet and the manual isn't quite finished.

Thanks heaps for your help.

My Email

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

You can still leave the AFM in if you want, but just make sure in the software to choose MAP sensor. Try and get a clean plenum line if possible for the MAP.

What do you mean by "Try and get a clean plenum line if possible for the MAP"?

Where did you get your line plumed into?

Thanks GTS-t VSPEC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...