Jump to content
SAU Community

Ati Balancer For Rb26/30 In R31....


G-R31
 Share

Recommended Posts

Yeh... i used the search but didn't find the exact answer, and hav't got time to go through the other 300 pages....

building an rb26/30 to go into my r31 skyline and was wondring if anyone can confirm exactly which ATI balancer i require,

engine is using an r32 head, r31 block and r31 accessories...

i'm after the 500hp model but heard there is a differernce in the offset between the two models, i'm guessing i use the r32 rb26 one (918599) but can anyone confirm this is the one to suit my p/s etc..

thanks,

g.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.
    • Once you go non OEM DBW e-throttle, you'll never go back to a cable throttle. Just so good in every single way.
    • Feels like most tend to keep it under 8000rpm for hydraulic lifters. Quick search on the net and those on Rennlist like to keep theirs under 7500rpm, Speed Talk under 8000rpm. Perhaps start to take timing out for 7250rpm and soft cut it by 8000rpm.
    • Ok, so I just had a chat with my mechanic. He said there is no real source of lead in the engine, the bearings and pistons are aluminium and the rings I think he said are steel. He doesn't recall what additive he used but that along with the thicker 20w50 he used could be a source of lead. It's put me at ease a little bit and I guess I'll just have to wait 5000 k's to do another change and see if anything is different.  I appreciate you guys chiming in. I have a habit of immediately thinking worst case with things like this.
    • Finished street tuning it to 20psi with WMI. Haltech really makes it easy for you with those 4D maps. I have 17psi springs in my gates but they seem to only start cracking around 17 and taper off around 19/20psi. I was originally on 14psi springs but I'm expecting to need ~35-38psi to hit my goal and I was worried It wouldn't make it. Dyno's booked for next Friday. All I have left is to replace my el cheapo amazon special type k connectors on my EGT's. They have no strain relief and well are just all around cheap compared to what I use at work. I had the wires in one get lose and I don't want a repeat of that on the Dyno. I also want to figure out why I have 4 cylinders that are perfectly identical, one that's 30C over and another that's 30C under. I'm chocking this up to EGT position in the runners not being identical and will verify that as well. Wish me luck! Hopefully I make all the power with no bang. Question for the group, I have my rev limiter set to 8000rpm. I have a fully built head and new lifters but I stuck with hydro's. Is 8000 fair or am I being to cautious? 
×
×
  • Create New...