Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car now have a blitz exhaust, frountmount intercooler, greddy profec-b spec 2 boost controller (wich i don't know how to set %?%$&/ ), stock turbo and internal.

I might go with gt3076r. Should i go ported internal or external westgate?

I need advice for a setup with a budget around 4000$.

Thanks!

turbo 2k gt3076 off horsepowerinabox.com the bolt on version, internal gate

water lines 200-300

dump/front if you dont already have it

ecu

should crack 300rwhp easily

or the HKS GT-RS bolt on kit

under 2.5k from japan + ecu

should also do it

The horsepowerinabox turbo won't make that power due to the re-profiled rear.

If you seriously want to make that power, you need to go down the "real" road, not the dodgey bolt on road.

Go to a Garrett Distributor and get the real Garrett GT3037 turbo and use the Garrett 0.87 rear. To make 420rwhp, you'll need at least 20psi.

Get real pipes made up.

I'm confused though, do you want 400+rwhp, or engine horsepower?

If you're only after 400 engine horsepower, get a GT-RS turbo.

ecu- 1500 installed . power fc or other (roughly)

set of injectors 1100 installed (roughly)

higher flowing fuel pump. nismo/ tomei. whichever 700 installed

4k budget wont do it.

gt3540!! 2 grand. will get you 400-450rwhp easy

oh yeah your gonna need a damn good clutch. theres atleast $1400 installed there.

do it right and dont go cheap

if you only wanna spend 4k dont set yourself such a high power figure. assuming this is at the rear treads ofcourse

hope this helps

The horsepowerinabox turbo won't make that power due to the re-profiled rear.

If you seriously want to make that power, you need to go down the "real" road, not the dodgey bolt on road.

Go to a Garrett Distributor and get the real Garrett GT3037 turbo and use the Garrett 0.87 rear. To make 420rwhp, you'll need at least 20psi.

Get real pipes made up.

I'm confused though, do you want 400+rwhp, or engine horsepower?

If you're only after 400 engine horsepower, get a GT-RS turbo.

I'm looking for 425 hp on the engine not at the weels. I surely wanna go with a 3076r but i'm just not sur going IW or EW. I prefer IW cause i do not want to change my manifold but still... Another thing, i'll keep the stock internal so i don't think a stock rb25 can push a gt3540 that easily!

ecu- 1500 installed . power fc or other (roughly)

set of injectors 1100 installed (roughly)

higher flowing fuel pump. nismo/ tomei. whichever 700 installed

4k budget wont do it.

gt3540!! 2 grand. will get you 400-450rwhp easy

oh yeah your gonna need a damn good clutch. theres atleast $1400 installed there.

do it right and dont go cheap

if you only wanna spend 4k dont set yourself such a high power figure. assuming this is at the rear treads ofcourse

hope this helps

I agree to that 100%. But i'm a mechanic so it won't cost me that much. I live in Montreal, Canada. I'm not sure but the price of those parts seems to be cheaper here. I can get a nice nismo pump for 300 can $ tax in.

Honnestly, i was thinking about a z32 maf, z32 ecu, nismo fuel pump, 550 cc injectors, gt3076r and a clutch of course. Do i really have to get a power fc?

Edited by Nick378

+1 ^^^

I am running HKS 2835 Pro S kit with all supporting bolt on mods, plus some poncams and I would be running in excess of your desired flywheel figure based on a rough calculation with a responsive tune (responsiveness rather than high end output). I reckon it may cost you a bit more than $4000 though. I haven't bothered checking the conversion rates but in Aussie dollars the turbo kit alone won't give you too much change from $3500.

HKS 2835Pros Kit.

will net you up to 450+engine HP if you want, and it doesnt sacrifice much if any drivability.

This is the way to go if you're only after 450 engine horsepower

Perfect kit. Excellent response, etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...