Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
very nice, just a question do u use just the one layer of carbon cloth? im intending to make a front lip from a mould.

unless you can get a black fibreglass matt, i would do 2 layers of carbon with some fibreglass backing.

I know its abit strange but Im interested in doing this for door trims. If anyone has some R34 door trims they dont use (unlikely) id like to buy/borrow them. If all goes well I figure I can make a stick on door trim like the stocker material

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
unless you can get a black fibreglass matt, i would do 2 layers of carbon with some fibreglass backing.

so the process would be resin+ 1 layer, let it dry, apply more resin + 2nd layer, let it dry (then coats as normal after)?

bunnings has resin and hardener

so do most hardware stores - they also sell those fibreglass kits.

The ones that bunnings sell usually are just polyester resin which dries to an ugly yellow tinge. If you are gonna do carbon go to a fibreglass supplier in your area and get proper epoxy resin that dries clear otherwise the effect it will prob end up looking sh1t. Theres a guy on ebay that sells it as well. He is based on the north coast of NSW, pretty well priced too. Just search ebay. If you are in sydney, theres a place at Seven Hills called FMS (Fibreglass material services) they sell everything including carbon weave off the roll.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...