Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm iv had my car 3 years and never had this before.

On very cold/frosty mornings my car wont rev past 1k......seems to be some type of fail safe :)

Then by the time I finish work at 5 its all up and running fine again. and on a worm morning it also works fine.

One thing I noticed is when it wont rev my SAFC shows no rev reading.. does this mean anything ??

I have checked for boost leeks etc. and just did a full fluid and filter service on the weekend.. and still getting the same issue on cold mornings.

any idea would be awesome

Thanks :banana:

Check your water temp sensor. Does your dash water temp work fine?

You havn't accidentaly changed one of the sensor settings on the SAFC? I can't remember what they are on the SAFC but i remember there being a few settings regarding the inital setup.

Edited by PM-R33

yep water temp is all working sweet as..

its running standard ECU with piggy back SAFC-II

I disconnected the SAFC and ran only factory ecu and i still got the prob on a frosty morning

Hmm interesting. When you say it wont rev past 1000rpm, as in it wont even rev past it in neutral or only when your in 1st gear trying to drive? Also when you try to rev past 1000rpm does it sound like a rev limiter bouncing off of 1000rpm or something else?

The only thing i can think of is the temperature of the coolant being that low that it is going into some sort of factory safety on the stock ecu and wont allow the car to go until it warms up a bit.....probably not that but just thinking out loud.

yea also thought the same. it does in neutral and in gear. it bounces off 1000rpm like the is a boost look e.g a slow bob up and down.

i have left it to sit to get to running temp and still no luck.

only thing that get it going sweet is leave it for the day and try after work haha then all is go.. :P

Hey mate,

Yeh ive got the same problem, only in the mornings, mine wont rev past 2k.

Ive got someone looking at it today, so hopefully ill have a answer for you soon.

if anyone else has had this problem let us know.

But it doesn't lift the rpm once the car is warm, so it is not a factory safety feature.

I assume after you left it to warm up and it still wouldn't rev past 1krpm, you turned it off and on again; and it still would rev past 1krpm.

I am more inclined to think "dry joints" in the AFM

or

Even cracks in the coil packs and the moisture in the air is causing a short to the engine.

Ask a fellow Skyline mate to swap parts for a short period of time.

ie: Swap AFM, see if fault reoccurs, then try coils, then ignitor pack, etc.

ONLY swap one item at a time, and swap back before testing another item.

If that's not possible then try using a heat gun or hair dryer, the next time the problem occurs. Once again only try gently heating one component at a time.

thanks for the reply guys. hmm still not much luck.

have also tried the above with no luck at all. have also tried re-setting the computer and no luck there either.

I have Splitfire coils like 6 months old so dont think its them haha well bloody hope not any way.

It may very well be AFM so this week ill try another one and/or clean it with AFM cleaner. will aso give all connections a clean up with crc.

again will let ya know.

But it doesn't lift the rpm once the car is warm, so it is not a factory safety feature.

I assume after you left it to warm up and it still wouldn't rev past 1krpm, you turned it off and on again; and it still would rev past 1krpm.

I am more inclined to think "dry joints" in the AFM

or

Even cracks in the coil packs and the moisture in the air is causing a short to the engine.

Ask a fellow Skyline mate to swap parts for a short period of time.

ie: Swap AFM, see if fault reoccurs, then try coils, then ignitor pack, etc.

ONLY swap one item at a time, and swap back before testing another item.

If that's not possible then try using a heat gun or hair dryer, the next time the problem occurs. Once again only try gently heating one component at a time.

Agreed, doesn't sound like coldstart or limp mode.

On a coldstart note, now that I have Datascan running all the time, I have discovered that the ECU comes out of coldstart once water temp hits 65deg :)

  • 1 month later...

yep i got the same problem when i start the car in the morning it will not go past 1k and will eventually stall but if i giv it some gas its fine i got it dynoed today and 2 problems came up error in the ECU and AFM does your car idle rough when its warm like shake the inside of the car????????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...