Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally i hated hicas, im so much happier with it gone and i harly ever drift. So much more predictable round corners. And yes it is a must if you drift the car! The hicas will try to make you go straight the whole time instead of sideways :laugh:

It can be done with hicas, gets a bit hairy when goin hard and particularly if its a bit wet.

Lots of corrections and in my opinion not worth keeping if your seriously considering the drift.

Mine is a R32 but I know I hated the stuff. I mean its a sports car of sorts and why the hell does it need a driving aid.

Got rid of it and actually think it has improved the handling. More predictable and I think quicker due to the fact as now I know exactly when slip will happen rather than there she goes-oh sh*t there she goes again.

i still got mine and try to slide. when i 1st started i thought hicas was shit and it was making me oversteer etc.... then i realised that finding a smooth rd is one of the more important things. plus if its a r32, hicas is minimal, i remember reading somewhere that hicas on r32's only moves out like 1.5 degrees, which aint much, and unless your doing 120k entries you shouldnt worry about it to much...

in saying that, i still plan on removing it in the near future.

HICAS never made me spin out but it certainly made the car feel rather dodgy and when doing big 2nd gear burnouts it was hard to change direction as the rear wheels started pointing in the same direction as the front wheels so all it wanted to do was crab down the road.

HICAS was removed by the time I got around to some skidpan drifting so can't comment on before and after.

HICAS never made me spin out but it certainly made the car feel rather dodgy and when doing big 2nd gear burnouts it was hard to change direction as the rear wheels started pointing in the same direction as the front wheels so all it wanted to do was crab down the road.

So thats why it does that when doing burnouts!! Everything makes sense now lol.

Edited by PM-R33

HICAS is always used as scape goat for crap driving but it does make the car feel squirelly....certainly wont make you lose it but at the end of the day predictability is what your after so best bet is to bin it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...