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R34 Gt-t Lights Coming Up On Dash Engine Light,slip & Tcs Light

brembogtr

By brembogtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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brembogtr Collaborator

brembogtr

Posted
Posted

im trying to figure out whats wrong with my r34 gt-t

when im driving it after 15 mins 3 lights come up

engine light, slip light and tcs light

and the car dosent run the best when the lights come up but when i switch the car off and on again they stay on appart from the engine light

does anyone have any idea's?

do r34's have ignitor moudle's?

thankyou

Silver_R34_GT-T Grand Master

Silver_R34_GT-T

Posted
Posted

THIS EXACT THING HAPPEND TO ME FEW MONTHS AGO, mechanic told me ECU was farked, but searched on sau,

bought new spitifres, fitted myself and Bam havent seen the issue since :P

and saved myself like 2000 bucks lol

  • 1 year later...
TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

Hi I have been getting the occasional TCS and SLIP light coming on on startup. Fix it by switching off and starting again. Last week I got the problem when I was driving though and immediately after that it followed by a CEL which caused the idle to be irratic and do drop to about 500rpm, looked as if the oil pressure was dropping as well as becuase of the irratic idle. Luckily I was around the corner from home and got her back and decided to check the problem online to see if anyone encountered it. Low and behold it is a known problem with coilpacks so I decide to scrp the center cover and have a look at the coilpacks. I am currently running Iridium 7's with a gapping of 1.1mm that I regapped to 0.8mm. I was never confident on the manual gapping and decided to swap out the Iridiums for some NGK coppers with a 1.1mm gap as well. Now I have a huge Oddesey battery so I know the power is not the problem.

I swapped the plugs out and inspected the coilpacks thoroughly same time and they all look like brand new so I put them back in and refitted everything and started her up. After a couple of seconds the TCS and SLIP came on and the CEL a little later as well. On some more reading I heard to first check my timing, this car came from Japan with a Blitz Access ECU and a Pivot ACS-M controller to adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture, I had a wideband attached and made the fuel adjustment for our octane. This is a temporary measure until I can afford a proper standalone setup. Anyway, I followed advice and checked timing, bringing the car to operating temp and then connecting the timing light and unplugging the TPS harness as this is an RB25DET Neo. Checked the timing and it is at 10*, I know it suppose to be 15* so I adjusted the CAS and got it to be at 15* then reconnected the TPS harness and rev the car and checked to see that the timing advances accordingly and then switched the ignition to the OFF position and then restarted clearing all the logs. Now when I start the car there is no TCS or SLIP light and thus far the CEL is not there. I am yet to take the car for a spin to see if it has gone away but I am still getting a slight miss, hoping that it may clearup with a couple of spirited trips but if the lights come back I will be pulling the codes off the consult connector to see what code it is throwing, I should have done this initially but it slipped me. What I also found when I clipped back in the TPS harness is that the timing began to fluctuate and it was difficult to see where the timing was at with the gun, is that normal?

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

I pulled the codes from the CEL as they came up when I started the car tonight. Here is what I got

17 - ABS/TCS Control Unit Circuit. Throttle Control Unit detects malfunction in the system/TCS/ABS Control Unit detects malfunction.

21 - Ignition Signal Circuit. No Consecutive Ignition Signal while the engine is running

43 - Throttle Position Sensor Signal Circuit. TPS output voltage is either higher than 4.7V or lower than 0.06V for predetermined time while parked/neutral position switch is OFF and vehiucle speed is less thank 4Km/hr or higher

Could it be that the coilpacks are causing the other errors to come about? When I started the car the idle was about 2000rpm and then very abruptly it dropped under to about 500rpm and then the idle sounded all weird. Any ideas or should I change the coilpacks and work from there?

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

+11ty trillion for coilpacks - Splitfires, all the way

very very very very very common R34 problem. The reason it's not running right is that's it's actually dropped a few cylinders... any bets your car sounds like a WRX when it happens?

no major issues really, plug and play Splitfires and you'll be sweet for a long long time

skyliner34pc Enthusiast

skyliner34pc

Posted
Posted
im trying to figure out whats wrong with my r34 gt-t

when im driving it after 15 mins 3 lights come up

engine light, slip light and tcs light

and the car dosent run the best when the lights come up but when i switch the car off and on again they stay on appart from the engine light

does anyone have any idea's?

do r34's have ignitor moudle's?

thankyou

hi

+1 for coil packs.... I had the same problem and just last week i bought some yellow jackets and hasnt missed a bit since.

Hope that helps!

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

Also I checked the resistance on the primary side of my GTT coilpacks and I have found the culprit. Here are my readings,

Coilpack 1 - 1.686

Coilpack 2 - 1.683

Coilpack 3 - 1.546

Coilpack 4 -

Coilpack 5 - 1.581

Coilpack 6 - 1.671

My Part Number for these coils are MCP-1440 as stated earlier. I got a set off a Neo but not sure if it was an RB20 or 25 as they were off in a box, the part number is MCP-1340. Does anyone know if I can use them? Here is the primary side resistanc eon the five I got,

Coilpack 2 - 1.440

Coilpack 3 - 1.385

Coilpack 4 - 1.423

Coilpack 5 - 1.424

Coilpack 6 - 1.556

Now my next question is is the lower the resistance the better and the higher the resistance? Wondering if I can put it these five and the lowest resistance one from my bunch to make a set? Your thought?

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

Any way, I got a replacement coilpack and swapped number four and refitted my setup, rechecked timing and started the car. CEL has gone so far but the TCS and SLIP lights are still there. Ran an ECU diagnostic and came up with 17 only this time so the coilpack so far has cured two symptoms. I decided to erase fault codes and start again, so far no codes are appearing, no TCS, SLIP or CEL light. My idle is a little lumpy at times but I am yet to drive her. Maybe with some driving it will clear up. I have since found some other stuff to do to her in the mean time before putting her back on the road; leaking upper rad hose and thrashed steering rack rubbers. Does it ever end.

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

Drove the car today, no more dash lights but after a couple of spirited runs the breakup is happening at 5000+rpm. Can it be the gapping, I have BKR7E-11 copper plugs. The idle is getting back what seems to be a miss again. Gonna try and run it without the coilpack cover tomorrow in the night and see if I see any arcing. None of my coilpacks have any sign of arcing whatsoever. What else you can suggest besides getting Splitfires as right now I cannot afford to get them and I don't wanna park up my car :blush:.

TriniGT Experienced

TriniGT

Posted
Posted

Talk about bad luck, parked by a traffic light this morning and an old guy runs into the back of me. The car is actually pulling much better after I replaced some of the stock vacuum lines with some silicone replacements. Now I am down for the count. Thinking about fixing her up and selling her and getting me a GTR if I can afford one.

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