Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I wasnt too sure where to post this but anyway here's my problem...

I had a 3" turbo back system fitted to my R34 a few months back. The bloke assured me that stainless was the best way to go and he quoted me what I thort was a great price after I told him I had been referred to him by a mate of mine who had previosly had work done by his shop.

So I booked in and got it all done.....

Now I found out from my mechanic that all the piping in the system is mild steel except for the last bit of piping after the resonator. Not Happy!!

I went down to the exhaust shop only to find that it has been sold ad the new owner doesn't wanna know about it.

Just wondering if anyone had any ideas on what i should do, or if there is even anything I can do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/
Share on other sites

Did you get an invoice that says s/s exhaust and how much was it?

Yeah the invoice says s/s cat, muffler and pipework. He only charged me $1100 as I payed cash, and had been referred to him by a mate of mine.

The price was pretty damn good imo, but I asked for stainless, he quoted me stainless and according to my invoice I payed for stainless...

Yeah go to the office of consumer and business affairs and lodge a complaint against the company that did your exhaust. Tell them the story and they will do an investigation.

Yeah, a few people have said something along those lines so I will give them a call and see how I go.

Thanks for the replies guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4109945
Share on other sites

rob bliss did my exhuast, i paid 1100 all up for 3 inch turbo back mild steel, ( including fake/gutted cat and a new cannon )

i was happy with it, checked over at the shop etc drove homee, wanst till i got home and looked again i realised ( also measured with tape ) that the cannon was smaller than what i had picked out ( by an inch) and for some reason the entire exhuast seems to be welded together, no bolts ( except those holding it to the turbo etc.

very strange.

anyway, if u couldnt be f**ked bending over and looking under your car to see if it was all S/s then its too bad for you... and if the business ahs been sold, i cant see how your going to get the new owner to give a shit. as its not his issue

Edited by Silver_R34_GT-T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110018
Share on other sites

Yeah the thing is... The exhaust was fitted by the shop....not the owner. With warranty etc. So as far as it not being the responsibility of the shop, i beg to differ.

And couldnt be f**ked bending over? Shouldnt I be entitled to believe I have been sold what I paid for? The last part of the piping (after the resonator) to the rear of the car is s/s. So the part I can see......IS stainless. Its the other 3/4 of the piping that I cant see that is mild steel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110167
Share on other sites

yeah, i suppose it is the shops responsibily, if hes continueing the shop as the same thing as before, and not jsut using its name and started fresh etc. etc etc (( i dunno details) and its liek anything you do, its always best to double check for what you pay for,

its like buying meals at mcdonalds, you always check the bad for the fries just incase you get stooged lol

anyway good luck with it man, hope the new owner listens and u get it sorted :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110240
Share on other sites

also, my brothers stainless steel exhaust manifold, was shining for about a month or so, and now it has turned into a horrid looking mild steel thing..

could it be the heat has changed the steels colour, to what looks like mild steel,, or is it actually mild steel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110249
Share on other sites

Nah it's definately mild steel. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, but it's the principal of the thing! lol

I'll see how I go I guess. And yeah I've learned a valuable lesson, check EVERYTHING that gets done!

Cheers for all the replies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110273
Share on other sites

Caloundra Exhaust

Ahh that sounds unusual of lee to do that to you.He use to be pretty good.fair enough if you and lee had came to a arangment to do it in stainless but one thing for you.depending on what type of wall thickness the stainless is, stainless seems to resonate a fair bit compared to mild steel, which can make your car sound drony, but also it varies on the type of muffler used.

i have just made my cat back exhaust myself back to mild steel, mandrel bent of course and i can notice the difference.Personally i wouldnt go stainless unless you plan to keep the car for donkeys years, but i would be annoyed if this happened to me if something had been agreed on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110827
Share on other sites

its like buying meals at mcdonalds, you always check the bad for the fries just incase you get stooged lol

Yeah but the end is stainless.. its like looking in ur bag and seeing the chips there.. but when you get home you find the ones underneath the others are uncooked lol

if he took over the business then he is obliged to take over any warranties with the parts that were supplied.. and if the invoice says s/s then the business can be looked upon.. however the fact that the old owner has been the one to obviously do the dodge on you, then it may be a problem that you will have to chase him for the dosh.. which would be very hard and expensive (legal system for you)

imo, yes it is disapponting and unfortunate but now that he has sold his business, i would just move on and be happy with what you got as the price seemes ok to what everyone else has got for the same price.. at least you got some s/s for the cost of mild... or you could try go back and work some deal with the shop.. they take your exhaust back and for some extra dosh you can have it upgraded to s/s??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234452-exhaust-drama/#findComment-4110920
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...