Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all.

Just having a look at a few 40th anniversary GTS-T's obviously 1998 models.

All of them have the updated trim, rear strut bar and some other 40th anniversary edition features.

Although i have noticed some of them do not have the badging on the pillar stating its the limited edition model.

Just wandering if anyone knows why this is?

I believe its not debadging :)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234584-40th-anniversary-gts-t/
Share on other sites

If they're 40th anniv, they'll have the badges, unless they've been removed by 1 of the owners....

Ah i see reason i ask is because i have a 1/1998 GTS-T with the 40th anniversary trim, GTR wing, strut bar and the nismo optioned front bar in the 98 midnight purple. Although i dont have the badging on the exterior. I dont understand why someone would remove it awell i guess.

Ah i see reason i ask is because i have a 1/1998 GTS-T with the 40th anniversary trim, GTR wing, strut bar and the nismo optioned front bar in the 98 midnight purple. Although i dont have the badging on the exterior. I dont understand why someone would remove it awell i guess.

neither do i! have a nov 97 with strut bar and 40th anniversary seats but no badges on outside! I also have rear pods which i think are different to a normal series2

I have some new 40th ann badges if you need them.. bought them from Nissan Japan for my old 40th ann.

oh no thanks i actually prefer it with no badges, looks smoother but im taking it your 40th anniversary edition didnt have badging either?

nope no pods, mine has different to normal Series 2s the following

-rear strut brace

-optioned GT-R spoiler

-optioned Nismo front bar

-40th anniversary seats

-midnight purple colour which only came on the 40th anniversary models

-it was also built in january 98 which qualifies it to be a 40th anniversary

Thats it as far as i know

the badging is just wierd :S...

yeh i too have had badges removed

my car has had all the 40th anniversary features replaced except for the rear strut brace. guy in japan did it all

the car has been debadged, the rear gtr spoiler was replaced with a d wing and a GT spoiler, the front bar has been replaced by a real 400r front bar which i still have yet to see where to buy a replacement in case this one gets smashed. the 400r front bars you buy online from uas or carmate look very different to mine. mine looks like a modified GTR front bar. and my front seats have been replaced by Recaros. its factory black but yeh definetely a 40th anniversary

I've got '98 40th anniversary myself (I think there's 5 or 6 factory Midnight Purple 40th anniversary in oz).

Mine is in Midnight Purple, 4/98 build, I've got rear strut brace, mine is also debadged I reckon I prefer debadged myself.

I don't know which bar came from factory (have been replaced with 400r replica thing and will get original S2 Bumper painted soon).

I know the interior does have 40th anniversary badges, but mine didn't come with standard interior (got S3 GTR Interior).

Cheers

Grant

I've got '98 40th anniversary myself (I think there's 5 or 6 factory Midnight Purple 40th anniversary in oz).

Mine is in Midnight Purple, 4/98 build, I've got rear strut brace, mine is also debadged I reckon I prefer debadged myself.

I don't know which bar came from factory (have been replaced with 400r replica thing and will get original S2 Bumper painted soon).

I know the interior does have 40th anniversary badges, but mine didn't come with standard interior (got S3 GTR Interior).

Cheers

Grant

nice. 4/98 is the newest i have seen :P

I have seen quite alot more then 5 or 6 midnight purple ones in Oz though i rekon there would be more in the double figure range maybe 30-40.

Pretty sure 4/98 is the latest of the r33's (r34 started production from 5/98, feel free to correct me).

I wouldn't say there's 30-40 MP GTST in oz but around 10-15 is do-able (around 5 or 6 is what known to me).

Sorry for off-topic btw.

Cheers

Grant

Pretty sure 4/98 is the latest of the r33's (r34 started production from 5/98, feel free to correct me).

I wouldn't say there's 30-40 MP GTST in oz but around 10-15 is do-able (around 5 or 6 is what known to me).

Sorry for off-topic btw.

Cheers

Grant

Not a problem mate.

Im not sure your probably right 4/98 is the newest i have ever heard though.

Well i have definatley seen at least 10 genuine MP 40th anniversaryies, been quite a few for sale lately on car sales lately. I am assuming there might be another 20 though that we just havent heard of but i dont think i will ever know.

Feels good but having such a rare car though doesnt it :P

Yeah it feel kinda cool to be driving around in rare and sexy coloured R33!

About these numbers, we won't know until there's others start putting up their hands saying 'I've got one too!'

Cheers

Grant

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...