Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

am looking to lower my r33.. but i've been told that 'low' king springs or their equivalent will not actually drop the car by any great amount. just wondering if any of you have put low springs in and noticed a difference?

here is how it sits atm:

j5f1wy.jpg

cheers

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234638-lowering-r33/
Share on other sites

Yes they will lower your car. But why not just do the whole suspension with an SK kit. The stock suspension is probably looking a bit worse for wear. You will get the lower look you want plus the benefits of new/better suspension.

Just search Sydney Kid Suspension of numerous threads on the subject.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234638-lowering-r33/#findComment-4111041
Share on other sites

But why not just do the whole suspension with an SK kit.

$$$. That's why. I have seen the SK group buy, and $1k for a whole new suspension setup is probably stretching my budget just a bit... a couple hundred [less if i buy second hand] on just some springs is probably a better option for me. That said, im not sure of the condition of my stock suspension atm, so if it does turn out to be shagged i would defnitely consider the SK option

thanks for your advice

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234638-lowering-r33/#findComment-4111118
Share on other sites

If budget allows, do the lot at once.

I got lowered king springs (30mm drop from "factory"), and adjustable whitline sway bars front and rear. If you lower the car it will affect your camber as well.

In my case, lowering the car didn't make a huge visual difference as such, but it's definitely lower; My suspension had already sagged a bit over the years though.

I've now ordered adjustable castors and camber kit to correct the camber, which means more labour, adjustments and wheel allignment.

I'm no expert on suspension, but I have to agree that if I was to go back and do it again, I would have just bought the complete kit and do it properly all together.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234638-lowering-r33/#findComment-4112893
Share on other sites

Yep the king springs will lower you by at least 25mm, and you will need the camber adjusted using whiteline upper arm offset bushes or another method, you will lose rear grip until its done. then if you do all of that and not change the shocks you will have dead shocks fairly soon, they're already old.

If you do the upper arm bush install yourself you can save some money, take out arms give to suspension dude to take out factory bushes and put in new bushes following instructions reinstall then get an alignment I save at least $100 doing that part myself. Sway install you can do yourself.

Secondhand but fairly new lower springs I got for $150 brand new bilstein shocks I got for $650 so you can do it on the cheap if you hunt around and be patient.. adjustable sways are a must...

Yeah your car already looks lower than standard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234638-lowering-r33/#findComment-4113242
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...