Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey wondering if i can get some knowledgeable opinions...

First of all, just so you know im talking about non-modified, turbo, automatic examples...

I had an r34 for a few months before a taxi hit me from behind and wrote it off...

Ive test driven a few r33's in my time and I cant help but feel that they are more responsive engine wise, dare i say they feel faster. May just be my impressions...

Also I was under the impression that the r34 used less fuel than the r33... is this true? I noticed when i had my r34 that fuel consumption was reasonably high.

Basically I have 18k to spend... I could get a nice r33 for 12k and spend the extra money on alarms, a front bar, rear bar, dvd player, or whatever. Or i could get another r34 for about 16k, basic model and not really be able to afford any luxuries for it.

What is your opinion? Thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235183-buying-r33-or-r34/
Share on other sites

as you said if you get r33 you can spend money on other things, unless its a series 2 you will need a body kit IMO, but R34 looks fine stock !

As far as fuel economy goes the NEO is supposed to be more efficient, and the 34 has more power so should be faster, but i havent driven either so cant speak of which feels more responsive. Maybe someone with experience in both can shed some light on if the 34 has slightly more lag ?

a 34 WILL beat a 33, but if you just want to feel like your going fast, then if it turns out a 33 is more responsive maybe thats better for you ?

basically i think if youve had a 34 before and your having to second guess it maybe you really want the 33 so you can do more stuff to it, so perhaps that is your answer ? :D

Hey mate,

bummer about the first r34. We've seeing r34 sales definitely outnumbering r33 sales lately, but if you can find a mint 33 that might be a good option for you. We've got an auto coupe turbo 34 coming in, selling for $14,900 after compliance (wholesale price). more info on our ebay page.

basically the body is pretty different, so choose whichever one you prefer lookswise. You can get great performance out of either.

cheers,

David @ Carizma

Hey wondering if i can get some knowledgeable opinions...

First of all, just so you know im talking about non-modified, turbo, automatic examples...

I had an r34 for a few months before a taxi hit me from behind and wrote it off...

Ive test driven a few r33's in my time and I cant help but feel that they are more responsive engine wise, dare i say they feel faster. May just be my impressions...

Also I was under the impression that the r34 used less fuel than the r33... is this true? I noticed when i had my r34 that fuel consumption was reasonably high.

Basically I have 18k to spend... I could get a nice r33 for 12k and spend the extra money on alarms, a front bar, rear bar, dvd player, or whatever. Or i could get another r34 for about 16k, basic model and not really be able to afford any luxuries for it.

What is your opinion? Thanks :dry:

Hey mate,

bummer about the first r34. We've seeing r34 sales definitely outnumbering r33 sales lately, but if you can find a mint 33 that might be a good option for you. We've got an auto coupe turbo 34 coming in, selling for $14,900 after compliance (wholesale price). more info on our ebay page.

basically the body is pretty different, so choose whichever one you prefer lookswise. You can get great performance out of either.

cheers,

David @ Carizma

How much is that all up?? I have a max of 18 but that has to include 1k for insurance and also rego and also stamp duty...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...