Jump to content
SAU Community

Defensive Driving Level 1

ZXY

By ZXY,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

ZXY Mentor

ZXY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its a defensive driving course...im not sure ey..my bro bought a type r from AHG and anyone under 25 that buys a car from them gets 2 free courses from them...you take your own car and they teach you how to maximise it out i guess?

s2k12 Community Regular

s2k12

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ahh ok cool. Once I get money I'll look into it lol.

There's just the defensive one on the site, I'd assume it's the same as advanced.

Edit: http://www.dtec.com.au/dtec/defensive-driving.htm

Edited by s2k12
R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it a Performance driver day.

SAUWA runs a few of these a year for members....quite a few guys that have done those have stepped up and come out on race days with us.

You will learn a fair bit about the limit of the car...let the instructors once or twice to. You will see what your car is capable of then :(

ZXY Mentor

ZXY

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Ahh ok cool. Once I get money I'll look into it lol.

There's just the defensive one on the site, I'd assume it's the same as advanced.

Edit: http://www.dtec.com.au/dtec/defensive-driving.htm

im doing DDL1 in that link...and Brad that performance one looks good..might have a crack at that later on...i wonder how the track z will go at this

btw..my brother said its $300 to do DDL1

Edited by ZXY
s2k12 Community Regular

s2k12

Posted
Posted

Hrmm, didn't see the performance one on their site lol. I see what they did there, putting it in a seperate section and all.

$300 eh? Hrmm ok, might take longer than expected before I can do it then hah. Ideally I'd do the defensive ones then move onto the performance ones I guess.

ZXY Mentor

ZXY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
performance ones are better

its $90 from memory i could be wrong

and you get to take your own car

the defensive course is where you take out of of their cars with the weird wheels that makes it hard to control

I was told DDL1, i had to supply my own vehicle and i would be learning with my vehicle..the other ones are using toyotas that they supply. The performance one looks good though

inthisglass Grand Master

inthisglass

Posted
Posted

maybe there is different types

not 100%

but basically you go out on a skid pan

they set up cones, sit in the car with you and teach you how and when to break

and how to enter corners properly

its good fun and you learn a lot about how your car handles when you push it hard

i want to do another one soon

ZXY Mentor

ZXY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
maybe there is different types

not 100%

but basically you go out on a skid pan

they set up cones, sit in the car with you and teach you how and when to break

and how to enter corners properly

its good fun and you learn a lot about how your car handles when you push it hard

i want to do another one soon

Thanks for the heads up...ill def have a go at it after this one

R DIRTY 3 Grand Master

R DIRTY 3

Posted
Posted
im doing DDL1 in that link...and Brad that performance one looks good..might have a crack at that later on...i wonder how the track z will go at this

btw..my brother said its $300 to do DDL1

There is another member on these forums with a 350Z "track spec" car. Its fairly standard and it is fine out there. As far as lap times go at the Autotests, its really not that far off lead times....its very competitive :dry:

ZXY Mentor

ZXY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There is another member on these forums with a 350Z "track spec" car. Its fairly standard and it is fine out there. As far as lap times go at the Autotests, its really not that far off lead times....its very competitive :dry:

cool..ill give some feedback when i've done it...brad i might come check out WA suspension when i got time..looking at doing my suspension

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
Posted

Ive done the defensive driving course at AHG, was good fun, basically they run you through some driving tips, what PSI you should keep your tyres at. how to break in the wet with or without ABS. a few other things, a good day all in all :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...