Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Over the last week my car has developed a pretty bad stalling problem. It cuts out while slowing down for traffic lights or when pulling into the driveway. Then last night when driving I could smell something burning, about 30 seconds later the car cut out while still going 60km/h :P

Other info which might be relevant...

- my exhaust manifold was replaced about 2 weeks ago

- the problem is worse when the aircon is on

Any help would be appreciated :thanks: thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235964-bad-stalling-problem/
Share on other sites

reset stock ecu

if still persists check battery voltage

if still persists go see an auto elec/mechanic

Thanks, now that you mention it my battery is getting a bit old. The car needed a jump start after leaving the radio on for only 5-10 minutes. Do you think this could be the cause? I've mentioned this to a few people but they seem to think it's unrelated.

do you have an aftermarket bov?

Nope, car is pretty close to stock.

Edited by rick444
Thanks, now that you mention it my battery is getting a bit old. The car needed a jump start after leaving the radio on for only 5-10 minutes. Do you think this could be the cause? I've mentioned this to a few people but they seem to think it's unrelated.

Nope, car is pretty close to stock.

Check all your electrical plugs in your engine bay, first place i'll be looking is the AFM. is your car boosting ok? maybe borrow a friends AFM and i suggest you replace your battery, you dont want to be stuck with a flat!

I just checked out all the plugs in the engine bay and everything seems fine.

However when I let the off the throttle and the revs drop, sometimes I hear a faint crackling noise coming from the back of the engine bay, it almost sounds like electricity arcing, but I can't be sure. It only lasts a second and I can't find the source of it.

Mine was doing this last week. I changed the o2 sensor (could see it rich at idle on dyno) and its fixed the problem. I didnt think it was the problem but turned out to be!!

+1

might be worth a shot if you cant find the problem. do a search on the forums and you will find loads of threads on the o2 sensor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...