Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Abs Problem - Help!

Murry33

By Murry33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
Posted

Hey,

I've got a R33 Series 2 recently, noticed the ABS light was on when i was driving, thought it may be a loose wire or something.

UNTIL today i went to the garage and hear a little buzzing sound (like a small motor running), finally figured it was coming from my car.....

I opened the bonnet and the noise was coming from my ABS unit (car was completely off). I touched the ABS unit and it was quite hot, like it had been running a while............??

Anyway, my battery went flat because of it and now i need to figure out whats wrong with it.

So my abs light comes on, and my abs unit left itself turned on the whole night to leave my battery dead........can anyone help me with this??

Cheers!

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236085-r33-abs-problem-help/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

update on this, took to auto electrician but they only found the error code:

abs motor failure

rang a few wreckers for r33 abs,but all have slightly different part no's to mine.........as long as it's an abs unit for a R33 S2 should work yeah?

Cheers

Edited by DRIV3R
5hu7o Experienced

5hu7o

Posted
Posted
i would have stuff the ABS and disabled it

i drive with it off all the time and i prefer it off

to disable it you just take out the ABS fuses

u sure man abs can save u a good deal of trouble. just the other day i had a near miss with another car cos mine wasnt working

  • 2 weeks later...
macca911 Enthusiast

macca911

Posted
Posted

Hey, I have a similar Problem with the ABS. About a year ago the ABS pump would run constantly, my solution was to unplug the power cable to the unit. I checked all my fuses and wiring, no issues there......

Although Attached to the ABS unit is a small black box containing 2 relays. It may be worth getting these checked.

I drew up a wiring diagram and as far as i could tell one of the relays is malfunctioning. This explained my intermittent ABS warning light and pump not switching off...

good luck

Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

I have taken out the fuse before too and i prefer not having it. You can brake quicker without it. The reason it was designed is so you can stomp on the brake without having to worry about locking up and not being able to steer. But if your smart and dont keep them locked the whole time its a lot better than having abs. Just my opinion though. I keep the fuse in though as its not a bad idea in the wet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Watermouse
      Chris' R34 GTT Series 2

      By Watermouse · Posted

    • Lithium
      Garrett G Series

      By Lithium · Posted

      Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
    • robbo_rb180
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Great work Duncan, any events local you will give it a test once all done? 
×
×
  • Create New...