Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/girls, my traction control system cannot be turned off... The switch below left of the steering wheel will not turn on and off!!!

The switch itself pushes back when i press down on it so it won't click into another mode

What should i do?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236184-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

before you go thinking it is the switch.. maybe you should check the light isnt blown in the dash first!!! when you push the TCS button it will go back to the same position.. it doesnt click over.. which is stupid casue then TCS is on when you turn on the car.. as Howie has said PM 666dan and he has the controller box to have TCS off when the car starts.. however this will mean you cannnot turn on TCS if you wish.. assuming the switch is gone.. but first i would check/replace the bulb first (also 666dan can help with these too lol) as it will be cheapest to check

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236184-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4135018
Share on other sites

ok, so this is my understanding so far... At the moment i think that the switch is playing games, however, the slip and tcs light come on when i either launch the car hard or take a coner too fast. (this is after i've pushed the switch)

so, possibly the TCS is turned off, but i don't notice any difference, the car still oversteers and wants to correct itself

the TCS and Slip light comes on when i start the car up

Any other coments are welcomed, Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236184-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4135101
Share on other sites

If you've pressed the tcs off button but no 'tcs off' dash light comes on, then when you go for hard driving and the slip and tcs lights flash then I'd say it's just your button rooted and your tcs system working fine, your button is not letting you turn it off.

You TCS and SLIP lights are designed to light up when you're in ON on your ignition barrel before you start the car, just like the check engine lights,abs etc. so no problems with the bulb.

Once TCS is off your car behaves incredibly different, I think the TCS is 'too' effective for my liking, it will suck your power at the very hint of wheel spin rather than cut in when you really need it.

Although it does help in the rain when you take off, I don't launch my car like a d*ckhead but even in heavy rain when I just want to take off you're sitting there for a second or two spinning the wheels before it takes off, not a drama with TCS on :(

Edited by Yo-Yo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236184-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4135158
Share on other sites

yeah i've got a brass button clutch (will get rid of when i can afford) and it doesnt help at all in the rain.. i need tcs off in the rain to get moving lol

if your tcs and slip lights come on maybe you should look into why they come on.. i think this is caused by faulty coil packs.. try a search as it was covered when i was looking for why my slip light kept goin off.. although my prob was just the clutch me thinks..

when tcs kicks in you should have limited power and ur slip light should flash.. my tcs light never came on when it did this.. others who had tcs and slip come on and was given the advice to get coil packs replaced.. once again search to find out..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236184-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4137426
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...