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Item: HKS EVC electronic boost controller Version 3

Age: ? Probably a few years

Condition: Nice

Price: $180

To Fit: Any turbo car, external or internal gated settings

Location: Northern suburbs Melbourne

Contact: PM or through thread

Comments: Installation and setup manual will be posted on this thread or printed out to send

-Basically this was removed from my r34 gtr as i upgraded to a version 6. The in-cabin module was a little too boring for my like and i like flashy things.

-Dyno sheet provided to show how well it holds boost.

-Cosmetically its in a very nice condition with no real defects and the solenoid looks very clean and hi-tech compared to say an AVCR solenoid.

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Item: Billion VFC Pro - Variable fan controller

Age: ? Probably a few years

Condition: Nice

Price: $150

To Fit: ?? Im sure most cars

Location: Northern suburbs Melbourne

Contact: PM or through thread

Comments: Cosmetically in fantastic condition; comes with wiring loom

-Basically it works by controlling either your OEM electric fan to come on at a pre-set temperature or it can be used to control auxillary thermo fans.

-Great for traffic or track duties

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Item: Nismo Edition NGK Iridium Plugs

Age: 800-900kms

Condition: Nice

Price: ??? 80bux

To Fit: Mildly modified turbo cars with usual bolt-on mods

Location: Northern suburbs Melbourne

Contact: PM or through thread

Comments: Was installed when my car was complied 6months ago, I bought a set of IRITOP7's not knowing what i actually had installed and when i changed the plugs to my surprise i found these.

Part Number is: T7340-8

-Pics will be posted soon.

Item:Impul ECU for R34 GTR

Age:?? Few years

Condition:Excellent

Price: Open to offers

To Fit: R34 GTR

Location: Melbourne

Contact: Best to PM me

Comments: Remap'd ECU tuned for boost increase from exhaust addition, no top speed cut. Basically like a mines ECU

-$2000 brand new

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  • 1 month later...

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    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
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