Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Headlights, V35 Grill, R33 Gtr Mines Front Pipes, 18x12.5" Deep Lip Rims 5.5" Of Lip!, +more


Recommended Posts

Item: R33 GTR Mines front pipes x 2

Age: donno

Condition: one excellent with 3" outlet, one has a dent and has a 3.5" outlet

Price: $400 for the good one $300 for the dented one

To Fit: (What car) R33 GTR may fit others but dont quote me on that.

Location: Sydney west (near Parra)

Contact: PM me or 0401466244

Comments: Not needed anymore and I need the space

Item: Genisis 3 piece rims x2 only. 18 x 12.5" with a massive 5.5" lip/ dish whatever people call it

Age: donno

Condition: great, few light scrathes

Price: $700 the pair

To Fit: (What car) 114.3 offset unknown (they were donner rims so it didnt matter to me)

Location: Sydney west

Contact: PM or 0401466244

Comments: bought these as donnor rims. I wanted to use the outter lip and transfer my Volk GTN centres.. buying a GTR cant use them anymore.

Item: V35 headlights pair, for a S2 sedan

Age: donno

Condition: good

Price: $500 pair

To Fit: (What car) V35 sedan

Location: Sydney West

Contact: Pm or 04041466244

Comments: no needed, bought for a mate who ent up going through insurance

Item: V35 front grill

Age: donno

Condition: good, few scratched

Price: $200

To Fit: (What car) V35 sedan/coupe

Location: Sydney West

Contact: PM or 0401466244

Comments: as above

Item: R33 manual tail shaft series one (no ABS) with yoke

Age: donno

Condition: good

Price: $200

To Fit: R33 gtst manual no abs

Location: Sydney West

Contact: PM or 0401466244

Comments: not needed going GTR

Item: R33 gtst rear strut brace

Age: donno

Condition: good

Price: $150

To Fit: R33 gtst/GTR

Location: Sydney West

Contact: PM or 0401466244

Comments: no needed

Item: R33 gtst top secret side skirts from DMD top quality!

Age: new

Condition: new

Price: $250

To Fit: R33 gtst S1 or S2

Location: Sydney West

Contact: PM or 0401466244

Comments: no needed, going to keep the original GTR Kit once I buy it..

Edited by J'z-R33

I would take those side skirts off your hands but i have a set of 400R ones i need to sell. ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Im no expert on wheels champ, if the above is correct they would be about an 11-11.5 inch wheels. I also have 295/40/r18 semi's I can provide for extra $$$.

Cheers

J

  • 2 weeks later...

Still got this stuff, open to offers and I want to get rid of it all to make room in the garage for the rb26...

Thanks mate, I bought two to use the outter rim as a doner rim to make some custom volk GTN's but no longer need them as I bought a gtr instead.

Side skirts sold, rest still for sale..

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...