Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to have an idea of what range the various clearances should be at when screwing together the RB30 bottom end. So to those who have solid, experience based opinions, could you give an indicator of

Mains

Big ends

Thrust

clearances that should be the acceptable range? As an amateur builder I'm interested to see what others chase.

Engine to be set up for street + occasional track, RB26 oil pump, head feed restrictors, 6500 limit and ~ 15-16psi boost. Stock rods and +0.5mm cast 30E pistons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236850-bearing-clearances/
Share on other sites

this will depend greatly on who you ask, what oil you will run etc. Some people will recommend building them tight, near 1 thou on the mains, others will say 2 thou on the mains, general rule is 1 thou per inch of journal, and the more power you wake the larger the clearance. Personally i have built some sr20s loose, 2+ thou on the mains and was fine. I don't think there is the perfect rule, but building them a little on the looser side makes some sense to me.

standard thrust of about 3-4thou

mains around 2 and bigends around 1.5-2. if youve got a big hp and high rev motor, add .25 thou.

this is using a standard wieght oil. ie 40-50 hot.

the bigger the clearance the, the bigger the oil pump needs to be. also the bigger the clearance the less the oil will heat up :D

all the engins ive built have 1.7~ bigend and 2~ mains and 4~ thrust. (with a light leverage when checking. not just pushing with your hand)

Cheers Dave, good info that makes sense. I expected that the pump delivery should be geared to the bearing clearances, and what you say is logical.

I'm relying on the ability of my machinist, but want to be sure I'm going about it the right way. Somewhere I'd seen a comment advising against the use of plastigauge to check journal clearances during a dummy assembly. Anyone care to advance a reason why?

i use the plastiguage way. but you have to be carefull. the main problem is the crank spinning, and the dowls locating the conrods can grab and squash it more when you knock the caps off to check them...

works great for mains but. oh and i use a dial indicator for thrust. feeler guages is just not as spot on... as you actually have to push on the crank to get the best reading.

ie: 4 thou with feelers would be 5 or 6 or with a dial indicator.

ps, getting the girdle to sit in the right spot takes a while with a plastic hammer moving it back and forth so the thrust bearings are both contacting the thrust side squarely.

from experiance a well maintaned crank without scoring, given a light linnish tends to end up aroung the 1.5-1.7 range. but its imperative that you have the crank grubsrewed when its at the shop ,so you can actually clean it out properly before assembly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...