Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i was in the process of changing plugs when i noticed this ...

DSC00279.jpg

the little thing with the spring at the back bounced out and i couldnt find it, im assuming that the car's not driveable with it? regardless, I dont want to risk trying. Can someone tell me if i can get just that part somehow? or do i have to buy a whole new second hand coil pack?

Also, another one of these had just the spring inside when i opened it up ... and it was like that from before ... and the car was still driving :D

pls help, car's off road and i need to drive tommorow! I'm located in pascoe vale

p.s. yes yes i know my thumb twists in a weird way, but so does jessica alba's :)

Edited by agentx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236956-urgent-part-needed/
Share on other sites

no.. you won't be able to drive the car, unless you want to drive in cylinder mode.

I belive the spring makes contact with the top o the spark plug.

you can probabaly get away with it by using some spring in a ballpoint pen.

Edited by __PhaseShiftDown

no they dont

my mates gtt the same

and my splitfires the same too

i have a cople spare coilpacks kicking nad there just a spring too

if i wasint lazy i would take a pic but i allredy know the answer

regards

you're saying they dont have the steel bit attached to the spring? cuz mines a gtt and it does have them

you say here u have a gtt

i was saying thats thats not a gtt coilpack

so u do have stock rb20

coool clears this up

gtts defenitly only have the spring

you're saying they dont have the steel bit attached to the spring? cuz mines a gtt and it does have them
Hopefully you noticed it missing before removing the plugs as the carbon piece and spring could be in your engine now.

haha nah i actually saw it fly out near this wooden stage thing i have in the house, can't reach it now but yea not in the engine thank god :mellow:

ok opened all of them up and took the carbon bits and springs out ... they were filled with TONS of crap ... washed it all over and over and cleaned them all good .. replaced the missing one with just a spring i found lying around ... and its all sweet :-) running all good now much better then before. Will upgrade to spitfire coil packs later down the track but its all good for now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...