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hi guys

im in the midst planning for an engine conversion. at the end of the day, my aim is for around 170 - 200rwkw (depending on the mods i choose). ive had many discussions with ppl regarding which engine to choose bla, bla, bla. ive come to the decision the 25DET will do what i need, especially cause one of my biggest goals is to use the car as a daily driver. this is where im asking for anyone who has completed such a conversion to write in and tell me about it... ie, probs u had, issues u didnt see, things that went better than expected and so on. im also very interested in the cost involved as ive heard many differing amounts ranging from 12K - 18K..... tho when i say conversion i also mean full brake upgrade R33 - hubs, rotors, calipers, as well as drive train. im more than happy with the idea of replacing the whole "engine to wheels" drive train, as i know that is whats needed. im just interested to hear how it all went for those that have done it.

another point regarding the cost of the job, im looking at doing most of the work with a friend, not to save money and be a tight arse, but so i can have a hand in building my car, tho things such as the wiring, i'll get a sparky to handle. so if anyone has any input or can point me in the direction of ppl to talk to, it'd be much appreciated.

Greg

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ive seen a few Rb25det swaps done from start to finsh.. if a work shop was to do it, should only cost $5K-$6K, buts as you say your doing it your self, it'll be quite a bit less, The R33 hub converion is easy, and the driveline ei; gearbox and diff fit fine.

pics of a highly modded S13 with rb25dett can be seen here http://community.webshots.com/user/rb25detts13

you will get a 1/2 cut for 4.5k so doing it at a workshop for 5-6k is very unrealistic, i think dabigbolf spent quite a bit more then that...

if you are looking for only 170-200rwkw, stick with either teh SR20 or if you really want to do an engine swap the RB20 (which is alot cheaper to do as well), id sayonly go the 25 if your looking for more then 250rwkw...

I've wired up two S13's for the RB25DET, one a 180sx the other a Silvia, let me assure you it will be considerably more than 5-6K, will be closer to 8-12K from start to end.

The electrics in the 180 were considerably easier than in the Silvia, who'd have thought.

Yes thats what I thought too, the electrics were easier to pick up on the 180 because I grabbed what I needed for the ECU wiring from the headlight relay box on the passenger side.

The Silvia didn't have it and I had to run the cables elsewhere and unwrap and rewrap looms to make it all look factory.

Fuel pump wiring was also easier on the 180. A number of other things but thats all I can remember off the top of my head.

hi zar, always nice hear ur input dude...... my ultimate power aim is for atleast 200 clean at the wheels and the reason im keen on the 25 is because i can acheive this without playing with it too much, where as with the rb20 or SR, id need to do a bit of work to it and put more money in to get those figures.. keeping in mind, daily driver and fuel economy... tho at the end of the day, i can see i'll get near the end and just buy a crap day car and build this thing up :P

the half cut is what i'll be doing for sure, but at the moment, i have an auto, which means everything from the engine to the wheels will need to come out, no recycling on this job, tho i guess it just means i'll have more parts to sell when im done... im sure there's someone out there that'll want what i dont.. will also help carry some of the cost too.

as far as the wiring goes, i'll need to speak to someone who really knows the nissans, cause i have quite a bit of custom work i want done, along the lines of hiden switches and relays, so as im not just relying on an imobiliser to stop ppl theifing off with my car. id rather a couple smashed windows and kicked in panels, than someone wrapping it round a tree or taking it all together.

thanx for the replies tho, keep them coming if u have anything to share

Cheers greg

1) Dont use a turbo timer, they make the car exponentially easier to steal.

2) Refer to point 1.

3) Be very careful who you get to do your electrics. Most people will do a very average job and not make things easy to remove/repair/modify for whatever reasons may arrise in the future.

4) Engine mounts and sump need to be modified to allow bonnet to close (certain for Silvia, uncertain for 180sx)

5) Refer to point 1.

6) Ask whoever is doing the electrics to show you evidence of previous work. Do not just accept "Yes I did it moite and it worked well moite).

hahahhahah, thanx bozz

i hate having the positioning of my TT at the moment (and having one at all, its like having a ready made theft system sitting on the steering column.. this weekend tho, its moving, its not like u need to be looking at it for it to work.. but yeah, the aim is to have just a basic alarm and a wiring setup so u need to flick half a dozen switches to get the juices flowing and sparks happening... no poing getting some fancy arse alarm, if the theives already know how to get around it??

trouble is tho, there r plenty of "yes i did it moite's" around? u dont wanna do it for me :P

im not sure of bonnet clearance issues, but i know i need to change the cross member, so will sus something out when that goes ahead... also can go on the list of things i didnt know about, but now do.

thanx guys, keep em coming if u've got anything to share

Cheers

greg

bozz knows the wiring pretty well.

actually the best on the forums.

for 6 grand you would get a rb25 conversion that will probly need another 2 grand replacing things anyways.

When doing a conversion liek this you dont want to be pulling the motor out again.

So you got heater hoses, timing belt, waterpump, clutch, and then you start on, tailshaft, gearbox mount, engine mounts, crossmember, fuel pump, exhaust, thermo fans, radiator, then wiring the prick up is not that fun.

Bozz wired mine, and he knows what his doing. The concept of it is pretty straight forward, if you have done it before. Its a matter of looking at the r33 pinout and then matching that with the corresponding wiring in your S13.

but its something best left to someone who has done it. as last thing you want is a fire hazzard.

and i guaranty that you will be sorting out bugs for a fair while after you actually have it on the road.

best of luck

p.s

bozz i be right for tommorow, gearbox is crunching, pissn me off.

heres just a quick note of what i used and what it cost me excluding purchase of motor, cause that was kind of a messy situation.....

r32 crossmember for engine $35

vl commodore radiator $50

2 10 inch thermos $150

1 piece tailshaft $300 (including the purchase of a r33 tailshaft)

engine mounts and sump to be modified $350

gearbox crossmember $100

5 puk daiken clutch $550

bosch 040 fuel pump $205

timing belt $80

waterpump $120

rocker cover gaskets / oil pump gasket $70

cooler $750

silicon/ piping/ clamps/ fitted $550

front pipe $150

oil/air sep $90

hope i haven't left anything out....

ooh

all the help bozz has given me, priceless..... hehe

i'll need to replace the rear end too wont i, as i have an auto at the moment - diff, axles etc??... and the hubs, rotors, calipers... will i get the font brake set up with the front cut?? can i keep my ABS?? i should be able to use the calipers on the front now, on that back later??

in short tho, i should be able to get away with this for around 12G

if i decide however to be a lazy bum and get a shop to do it, what sort of price do u think they will rape - i mean, charge?? or are the estimates above based on a shop job.

has anyone kept a log / flow table while they were doing their conversions, along the lines of what order they did things, how easy hard some things were, points to remember, that sort of thing?? as ive said, im very keen to do as much as i can myself, but i dont want to attempt things that i should have a profesional do - ie, the wiring.

u dont have to change your diff. Most people dont even bother with the back brake change over.

I have still got the stock 1.8 litre brakes on mine. and they still work. thats front and back. The car isn't being used as a track car or anything, and i know not to push the car to hard because of it. E.g i haven't hit any high speeds, as the brakes then become vital.

best tip i can give you, is get everything possibly done before the motor and gearbox goes in.

You can do some of the wiring, such as cutting out uneeded stuff, and preparing the wiring for the speedo, reverse lights etc.

other than that theres no real order. But do all your waterpump, timing belt, heater hoises, belts, and small fidly bit whilst the motor is out.

Its a prick to do otherwise.

also make sure you dont lose your keys..... i did...

hehe

$12000 would get you a very quick rb25 s13. I'd say around 8 or 9 will get you some mild mods along the way.

you can keep your abs braking.... but if you intend on going for a big brake master cylinder you will need an ABS unit. I am using the r33 booster and brake master, and that works ok. no abs.....

anyways do it right the first time and you'll be right, do it half arsed and it cost you double....

laters

yes, dont listen to importers who tell you that the r33 turbo manual box doesn't fit.....

and that you have to go the auto....

what i would have done to know that before hand....

did someone say dont go to type m imports in bennet street.... caugh caugh.....

jibberish come take my parts....

hehe

i am almost over it.

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