Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone. i need to rebuild my rb20. just wondering if anyone knows roughly what prices are worth for parts? i need pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, valves etc. i just want all standard parts, nothing aftermarket or upgraded. im just wondering roughly what the parts are worth? any one done a rebuild lately. thanx people.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237452-rb20-rebuild-prices/
Share on other sites

dont rebuild your motor just by another rb20 that is your cheapest option.

it would cost a bit to throw a 25 depends what sorta budget u are working with i guess.

around 6k for a 25 conversion somewhere in that ball park anyways after u buy motor and box and consider labour but i would just buy a 20 that u can see is visibly running and comes with a compression test.

buy off a reputable shop to be on the safer side as well they dont get good reps for no reason.

they are a pretty hardy engine the 20's so i think youll be pretty safe with a second hand one.

i got respect for them as my mates jumped 9 teeth in total on the cam gears we went to start it hearing the valves smashing around .

we took the head off and seen bash marks in the pistons. we went over the head when we removed it and the valves werent even bent dont ask me how that is possible it was something u had to see to believe.

when we ripped everything apart the condition of everything was extremely good considering the hard life it had.

we chucked another head on the car anyways cos we thought it was f*kd when we heard the bashing.

put it all back together with the bashed pistons and the rest car still runs like a dream:):P:)

btw we are somewhat dodgy backyard mechanics(cables ties are our best friend)

wish u luck with the next engine mate.

Edited by Hunting Lions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...