Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Eventually i'll be starting my R32 project car. I'm just researching all my options before i go ahead with it.

I'm trying to decide what motor to use. I'd be looking at around maybe 400-500kw mark. But i don't know whether to go:

- Crazy RB25DET

- RB26DETT

- RB25/30

- RB26/30

- RB30DETT

Who's had experience with these motors? What would be the easiest to get that sort of power out of? What would be the most reliable?

Thanks

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/
Share on other sites

Maybe you should state your budget so you get better answers

i don't have a budget yet...i don't even have the car at the moment. This is merely research. but for example if the 26/30 is the best option i'll budget for that. if the 30 is better i'll budget for that. It'll be a very long term project

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4157757
Share on other sites

for that sort of power you're talking BIG money, so reliability shouldn't be too much of a factor, as you'll have to rebuild the entire thing.

What do you plan on using the car for?

If you're going to be spending massive coin, why not go for something a bit individual? I read of a TT LS3 R34 awhile back, putting out some huge numbers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4158039
Share on other sites

for that sort of power you're talking BIG money, so reliability shouldn't be too much of a factor, as you'll have to rebuild the entire thing.

What do you plan on using the car for?

If you're going to be spending massive coin, why not go for something a bit individual? I read of a TT LS3 R34 awhile back, putting out some huge numbers.

you mean this one?

da-GTR34158_img.jpg

I would possibly lean towards an LS series engine...but i would prefer an RB i think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4158053
Share on other sites

Hey cus have a gander at the motor im doin over the next few months that way u can guage wat u wana do. And i can get the parts 4 my build at a reasonable price thats y im stickin with the 25.

hey man..yeah thanks will do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4158085
Share on other sites

lol, 400 to 500rwkw is a big difference is drivability and cost

My advice? R32 GTST, strip it bare, get the rust out, only put in the parts that are required to make it move and get rego, rb26, eagle rods, cp pistons, jun pump and crank snout, n1 water pump, surge tank with 044, decent valve springs, clean up of head, big cams, to4z for big power or r34 n1's for response, nismo twin plate clutch

Then lots of fuel and tyres.

Easy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4158241
Share on other sites

lol, 400 to 500rwkw is a big difference is drivability and cost

My advice? R32 GTST, strip it bare, get the rust out, only put in the parts that are required to make it move and get rego, rb26, eagle rods, cp pistons, jun pump and crank snout, n1 water pump, surge tank with 044, decent valve springs, clean up of head, big cams, to4z for big power or r34 n1's for response, nismo twin plate clutch

Then lots of fuel and tyres.

Easy

400 is my main aim....but if i get to 500 i'll be happy.

Lets just say 450 to be safe lol

I'm still undecided whether to go GTR or GTST too..i'm thinking gtst tho but i'm not sure. mite have that as the power car..and just have a stock gtr maybe...if i'm made of money by that stage :cool:

I want at least 400 as i said..would the N1's get me there? Would i need something bigger?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237688-r32-project/#findComment-4158291
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...