Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Garrett Turbo

Age: unsure

Condition: very good condition NO SHAFT PLAY!!!

Price: chasing around $500 make an offer want it gone to fund new engine

To Fit: was on a RB would suit any thing above 2.5L due to the size

Location: Melbourne SE

Contact: Tom on 0401035221

Comments: had big plans for my engine using this turbo with other needed parts to produce over 250RWKW but changed my plans and im going RB26 Poweraaa unsure on the exact model number intake side of the turbo reads GARRETT B.C.C. A/R .60 and in small print M33 the exhaust housing reads .86 so its a fairly big turbo 3" exhaust V-band of the exhaust housing has thread tapped in to exhaust housing for Exhaust temp sensor its is a external gate turbo oil feed only not watercooled

Item: Turbo Garrett T04E

Age: unsure

Condition: fairly good has shaft play but does not hit either side of the housing

Price:$500

To Fit: any RB T3 flange

Location: Melbourne SE

Contact: tom 0401035221

Comments: the idea behind buying this turbo was to use the exhaust housing on the other turbo i have for sale hence it being smaller and a T3 flange, turbo read GARRETT A/R.50 B.C and the exhaust reads A/R .63 oil cooled only not watercooled...it too is a externalwaste turbo i have to a external gate adaptor which goes between the exhaust manifold and turbo and the externalgate bolts to the adaptor hence the turbo sits about 1 3/4 of a inch lower so a shorter oil return line and a longer oil feed is needed if needed it would be and extra 80 bucks its brand new never been used

Will post photos on possibly mon or tues my camera is at work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237970-performance-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

pics

bigger turbo

DSCN3490.jpg

DSCN3492.jpg

DSCN3495.jpg

garret t04e? info as above

DSCN3486.jpg

DSCN3485.jpg

sparco seat used no rails average condition good for track car etc $150 NEG

DSCN3481.jpg

HKS exhaust housing heat sheld came of my hks 2835 pro s i have no need for it $50

DSCN3498.jpg

DSCN3505.jpg

T3 external gate adaptor new

DSCN3497.jpg

greddy SM white face gauges with controller $300 very neg!!!!!!!! NOTE NO WIRING LOOMS OR SENSORS included has plans mo make wiring loom to me it isnt too hard but may require an auto elec or someone thats good with wiring isnt that hard to do NOTE the reason these are so cheap is the no wiring loom and senson PLUS IF YOU LOOK CLOSLY YOU WILL NOTICE SLIGHT DAMAGE TO THE METAL HOUSING TO SOME OF THE GAUGES DUE TO ANOTHER SAU MEMBER NOT THINKING JUST THREW THESE GAUGES INTO A EXPESS PAIDED ENVOLOPE AND NOT PACKING THEM CORRECT HENCE ITS MY LOSS AND THERE DUMBNESS

DSCN3506.jpgDSCN3518.jpg

Edited by tommygr34
  • 2 weeks later...

heat sheild sold ...... external gate adaptor sold....everything else is still for sale!!!! $250 for the gauges $110 for the sparco seat....turbos $200 each!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! need it gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...