Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well , for starters im buying one of the following: R33 Gts-4 , R33 Gts , R34 Gt , i have researched so much about every model of these cars Including the year models , but i still cant decide what model to get. I was just seeking for some opinions from people.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238452-i-dont-know-what-one-to-get/
Share on other sites

Dont get the r33 gts-4 as they only come NA and the drivetrain loss is awful.

My pick would be the r34 gt; newest model and looks great in black with the nismo kit, lowered on volk GTC's

r33 gts; series 2 with from lip addition. Should have some extra cash for extras

ps: NA skyline brakes are shocking and should be upgraded as a first mod!!!!!

R34 being the newer model will have a better chassis, and having owned both an r33 and r34 and the same would go for non turbo models. The 34 will be a much more rewarding ownership in my opinion, nicer seating position and improved driving feel overall.

Don't quote me but I think the r34 n/a will have 5 stud wheels as opposed to an r33's 4 stud, a big plus for the r34 if you plan on getting some rims

my 2c, good luck mate

Dont get the r33 gts-4 as they only come NA and the drivetrain loss is awful.

Who lied to you?

Do you know how the ATTESSA system works?

It depends for what purpose you want the car for. Daily, daily and track/drift, daily and mountain roads etc.

Daily driver, Id have to say GTT. Less km, less things to go wrong, more power, better responce, bigger brakes, higher level of comfort/features etc. If it comes down to 33 vs 34 you would be silly to pick a 33.

In my opinion 33's are pig ugly. But after driving both GTS4 and GTST (R32, and the 33 ATTESSA TES is even quicker), have to say that the level of grip in a GTS4 is far more superior than a GTST. Grip and power should always be correlational.

R34 being the newer model will have a better chassis, and having owned both an r33 and r34 and the same would go for non turbo models. The 34 will be a much more rewarding ownership in my opinion, nicer seating position and improved driving feel overall.

Don't quote me but I think the r34 n/a will have 5 stud wheels as opposed to an r33's 4 stud, a big plus for the r34 if you plan on getting some rims

my 2c, good luck mate

R34 NA's come with 5 studs.

R33 NA's come with 4 studs.

There is a model called an R34 GT-V that is a GTT but with an NA engine. So you get the same brakes, box, diff etc. as the turbo's but with an RB25DE

Who lied to you?

Do you know how the ATTESSA system works?

I dont understand???

My r33 gts-4 only made 78awkw on the dyno; 147kw at motor hence drivetrain loss

the r33 simply dosent have enough power to ever require attessa

r32 gts-4 is a different story.

Have dyno sheet still lolz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...